~ BUTTERED LIPS ~ ©

♦ EDIBLE PARCELS ♦

2012-01-05T21:31:00.000-08:00

Spiced Beef Parcels in Banana Leaf

One very long day of making hors d'oeuvres for the Christmas party order -- and I survived! It's so much more work doing appetizers than even doing a multi-course dinner. I always forget that. But, it was fun to do and I hope the report from the client will be positive.

I really wanted to do the beef parcels because they fit a holiday party so well. It's an Indonesian-inspired flavor of minced beef, with toasted coconut and sweet chili sauce to garnish. I think I'd like to do a variation on the theme and serve larger packets as a dinner course, with rice on the bottom, the minced meat on top and sauce already in the wrap. As for the little parcels, one has to have patience. I should have done them first, not last!

Another offering was a vegetable terrine with gelatin. A very European sort of dish -- I find that gelatin is used much more often in cold starters over there and I think Americans have a bit of an aversion to it because of Jell-o. If done properly, a savory gelatin or aspic is a pretty way to start or separate courses. The terrine I made yesterday was made with roasted eggplant, zucchini, and grilled red and yellow peppers in a gelatin of rich vegetable stock, tomato paste and white wine infused with thyme. I'm very happy with the way it turned out. After making the party terrine in the form, I had enough left over that I put the rest in a bowl for us. This is - roughly - how it looks when sliced, although, the real terrine mold produces much prettier results. This is just to give you an idea of what it looks like.

The third dish I made was Greek Koftas (meatballs) with a radish tsatsiki sauce. I like this radish version even better than the usual cucumber tsatsiki. It's slight bite and the pink color with red shreds is just so pretty.

Radish Tsatsiki Sauce

They were pleased and enjoyed the flavors. Now the come-down from the holiday excesses and some lighter, refreshing dishes to come.

FORAGING - Cranberries, Rose Hips and Mushrooms!

2011-10-30T20:01:00.000-07:00

~Rose Hip Syrup~

Last weekend was idyllic, autumn weather and I'd heard that mushrooms were up like crazy out near the coast. Our came the foraging gear and off we went to see what we could find. October is also cranberry harvesting season here in the northwest. So, I had high hopes for the day.

On the way, we spotted some rose bushes laden with perfect rose hips. We picked about three cups, making sure to leave plenty for the birds to enjoy. I planned to use them to make rose hip syrup for use in tea.

When we arrived at the coast, we started looking under the shore pines just behind the dunes. There were bolete mushrooms all over the place,as well as a few chanterelles! Jim called to me from the parking lot, "See any?" "Only everywhere," I replied. We could afford to be picky and only take the freshest, least blemished ones. At the end of the day, we had over 12 lbs. of mushrooms and I had a lot of work ahead of me to fry and freeze, dry and bag and to eat now.

We broke for lunch and were served piping hot cranberry apple cider. It was utterly delicious - I had two. After lunch, we headed for the cranberry fields, hoping to buy some fresh ones. There were some people out harvesting, but not many. The cranberry rakers we use out here in the northwest were invented here, as flooding the fields as they do back east isn't practical. No one was selling cranberries, so we got out to take some photos and all along each field were scattered berries that would go to waste. So, we gathered a bag of them and I had visions of my own cranberry cider dancing in my head.

Hot Cranberry Apple Cider - heavenly!

Bags of cranberries, ready to ship out

It was fun to find all this free food, just going out looking for it. Today, I made the rose hip syrup. The color is so rich and beautiful and the flavor is uniqely its own. Rather like persimmon, but with a little kick. Here is a simple recipe to make your own. It's wonderful in tea, over sliced fruit, on ice cream or plain yogurt.

ROSE HIP SYRUP

2 1/2 c. ripe rose hips, any size

2 c. water

1/3 c. sugar

6 strips of lemon peel

Juice of half a lemon

Trim the blossom ends off the hips and place in small saucepan. Pour water over, then add sugar and lemon peel. Bring to boil, then turn down heat to a simmer. Do not cover! Simmer about ten minutes, then use a potato masher or back of a large spoon to crush the fruit. Continue simmering for another 25-30 minutes, until liquid is becoming thickened. Stir in lemon juice. Remove from heat, cool slightly and then strain through a very fine sieve (or use one sieve inside of another), crushing fruit as you go to extract as much juice and pulp as possible. Pour into a jar, refrigerate and use within a month.

Note: spices can be added, if desired, such as cinnamon, cloves or candied ginger

☼

~CHANTERELLE HEAVEN~

2011-10-18T23:51:00.000-07:00

Aren't they beautiful?! I look forward to chanterelles all year. Autumn in the Pacific Northwest brings an enviable harvest of many types of mushroom ~ lobster mushrooms; chanterelles; fall oyster mushrooms; cauliflower types; lion's mane; various boletes - including King boletes (porcini), if you're lucky; matsutakes; shiitakes; puffballs; hen of the woods. It really is a fungi cornucopia! If you're not a mushroom lover, you have my deepest sympathies. This weekend, I'm going on a mushroom hunt in the Olympic National Forest with the South Sound Mushroom Club. I have high hopes for some great finds. But, since I have a basketful of chanterelles today, I wanted to post some photos and a couple of favorite recipes of mine. I hope that, wherever you are, you have access to these earthy, rich, meaty, colorful mushrooms.

As chanterelles (plural) grow in many places around the world, they go by different names. My family is German-American, so I always knew them as "pfifferlinge". The French often call them girolles, Italians call them cantarelli, but most cultures call them chanterelles. Their color glows! The hues range from pale yellow-cream to bright golden-orange. Color depends on age and the weather conditions when they were developing. All sizes and shapes are equally delicious and tender, from button-sized new ones to those fluted, horn-shaped, huge ones like the one on the upper right above. That one is 7 inches by 4 inches in HALF! If you look closely, you can see that it's folded like a clam. The photo below shows just a simple sauté of chanterelles in olive oil, butter, garlic, salt, black pepper and white wine served over newly harvested potatoes from our garden. Often, simple preparations are simply the best.

I want to share with you one of my favorite ways of cooking chanterelles ~ a wild mushroom ragout that's amazing served over grilled or roasted meats or as a sauce for polenta, potatoes or pasta. The fresh parsley on top at the end really does make a difference, in taste as well as presentation. Eat and be merry!

~WILD MUSHROOM RAGOUT~

4 servings

Note: If you are serving with pork or chicken, use Marsala. If serving with beef or game, use the red wine. If serving with pasta or polenta, it's your choice.

2 T. each of butter and olive oil

4 oz. finely chopped pancetta

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 lb. fresh chanterelles or a mix of wild mushrooms, roughly chopped (stems included)

2 T. flour

2/3 c. chicken stock, heated

2/3 c. Marsala OR dark red wine

2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves OR 1/2 tsp. dried thyme

1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

1/2 tsp. sea salt or Kosher salt

Fresh parsley, minced

In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, sauté pancetta until just starting to brown. Add shallot, garlic and chanterelles and sauté several minutes, until mushrooms lose their moisture and start to brown. Sprinkle flour over the mushroom mixture and continue to stir and cook for one minute more. Add hot chicken stock, stirring constantly. Sauce will start to thicken. Add Marsala or wine, thyme, salt and pepper and stir two minutes, until smooth and aromatic. Serve over meat, poultry, pasta or polenta, sprinkled with fresh parsley.

WHIRLY, CURLY GARLIC SCAPES

2011-07-03T16:42:00.000-07:00

My spring garlic plants put out their scapes in the past few days. They always seem to show up overnight. Suddenly, I see the wild curlicue whorls of the seed heads and stems. So artistic! The scapes are cut off in order to encourage the plant to put its energy into making the bulb grow and enlarge, rather than into making seeds. Even if you don't have your own, they're showing up in farmer's markets more and more often. What many people used to throw away (although my Oma added them to soups) are now a "new" gourmet food item. They'll only be available for a few weeks. Be sure to buy and use them when they're still curly. Once they straighten out, they're too old and will be tough.

They can be used cooked or raw. Sauteed in olive oil, steamed like garlicky beans, added to soup - all are delicious. I decided to make a pesto out of them, with a little bit of Spanish twist with the nuts and cheese. Tossed with hot linguini or spaghetti it is divine. That heady smell of garlic takes over your senses. See if you can find some scapes and give this a try.

Garlic Scape Hazelnut Pesto

15 curly garlic scapes

2/3 c. of a nice, green extra virgin olive oil

1/2 c. grated Spanish sheep cheese or Pecorino

1/2 c. grated Pamiggiano

1/2 c. dry white wine

Grated rind of one medium lemon

2 T. fresh lemon juice

1/2 c. ground hazelnuts or whole pine nuts

Wash scapes and chop roughly to fit into the bowl of a food processor more easily. Add half of the olive oil to the scapes and pulse until the scapes are well chopped. Add remaining olive oil and the rest of ingredients to the bowl and process until smooth, adding more olive oil if you like the consistency more loose.

Cover with plastic wrap, pushing the plastic down onto the surface of the pesto to keep it from oxidizing and turning dark. If using right away, leave it at room temperature for 30 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. If not, refrigerate up to three days. Toss with hot pasta, cooked al dente, and serve.

RUSTIC LUNCH

2011-06-30T22:38:00.001-07:00

Italy struck me today in the form of lunch. I made a southernized version of panzanella salad, with anchovies and red pepper flakes added to the usual dish. And, in Italian fashion, had a little red wine alongside. Hey, it was 10 p.m. in Italy, so why not? I had company, as you can see ...

What are we having?

I've had a creative day, writing at the battered picnic table out in the garden. Working on a short story (I think - maybe a long story) that's going very well and I'm really into. It's finally good enough weather to be outside. I prefer writing outside, where my mind has space to wander and imagine scenes. I never compose first drafts on the computer (except for blogs). I like the feel of the pencil on paper and the slower pace of hand writing allows me to think of just the right word. I write in pencil because I feel less constrained, more free to change later. Just a personal, psychological thing. Now that I've had lunch, I'll go play with my words some more - and dream up some new recipes while I'm at it.

~ BAKING IT OUT ~

2011-03-17T18:33:00.001-07:00

I've been cooking by rote the last weeks. Today was the first day in a long time that I cooked happy (at least a little). Guess that's progress. Steps, steps.

I went outside between rains and clipped some crabapple branches that are about to burst into bloom, added some white heather sprigs and placed the vase on the table. I played some fado music and some Vivaldi and when I was feeling a bit better, I hit the kitchen.

Experimenting with alternate flours, I came up with a bread recipe today, which turned out really well. Nice crumb, dense and chewy. Great for toast or sandwiches. I included spelt, for its high gluten content and nutty flavor, as well as a little sorghum flour for extra nutrition. The rest was the usual all purpose white flour. Sorghum is a common crop in arid areas and comes from the seed head of a type of grass. The grains can be popped, like popcorn. It contains high amounts of B-vitamins, potassium and calcium. Spelt is high in protein (up to 25% more than in wheat) and B-vitamins. I cheated and used the bread machine to mix, knead and let the bread rise the first time. Then I shaped it and let it rise in a warm place for the second rise.

Spelt White Bread

1 1/4 c. warm water

1 T. dry yeast

2 T. brown sugar

1 egg

3/4 c. spelt flour

1/3 c. sorghum flour

3 c. all purpose flour

2 T. butter, softened

2 t. salt

In bread machine container, add ingredients in order given. Set machine to "dough" setting. Allow to rise until doubled in bulk. Punch down gently and shape dough into a tight rounded ball, tucking edges under. Set on a lightly floured baking sheet, cover with a clean towel and let rise in a warm place for another hour. Slash top a few times, 1/4 inch deep. Heat oven to 400ºF. and bake for 30 minutes, or until browned and it sounds hollow when tapped. Cool completely before slicing (yeah, right).

Makes one loaf.

~MEAT MACHINE ! ~

2011-01-10T00:23:00.000-08:00

Vegetarians, take cover! I received my Christmas present yesterday ~ a heavy-duty meat grinder and sausage stuffer. Now I can make charcuterie and sausages at my house and not always have to go over to my friend's. But, when we do get together, we can go crazy making meaty marvels!

Of course, I had to try it out today. I still need to get some sausage casings, so sausages were out. I decided on a French-style terrine made with beef chuck, pork back fat, shallots & garlic, Marsala, Cognac, side bacon, pistachios and freshly-ground pâté spices. The grinder worked smoothly and quickly to get the meat and fat very fine. The mixture emulsified nicely when added to the aromatics and panada. So far, so good! I did a quenelle test - good spice and saltiness. Then into the terrine it went -- with great, smacking plops to force out any air. That's fun! Pan into a bain marie and patience, patience to wait for it to slowly cook in its bath. Once out, I weigh it with several cans to compact the meat so it slices nicely. It's a little early to break it out, but I cut a slice for you to see...

I was particularly pleased with the natural gelatin it made - the flavor is earthy and authentic - it tastes like the pâtés and terrines I buy in Europe. The Marsala comes through nicely. Here in the states, more specialty stores are carrying these, but nowhere near the variety available there. The main commercial producer here is D'Artagnan. I guess I'll just be making my own :-) I'm envisioning late spring lunches with a friend or four, serving young salad greens from the garden, homemade terrine slices, some chilled pinot gris and broiled strawberries with vanilla sauce for dessert. Yeah, I can see that. Can you?

A couple of months ago, I made this Pâté Grandmère - made with pork shoulder, pork liver, cream, brandy and spices. Voilà! -

Off on my meaty adventures ... I'm thinking some fresh, smoky paprika sausage for breakfast tomorrow.

♦ PANETTONE RECIPE ♦

2010-12-23T21:26:00.001-08:00

My favorite light display

Thanks for patiently waiting for the recipe. This one is based on a King Arthur Flour recipe from their huge baking book. However, I've adapted it to reflect more of the taste I find in the panettoni I find in Italy. I highly recommend using their Fiori di Sicilia flavoring, which you can find at www.bakerscatalogue.com as it is THE right flavor. Otherwise, use equal parts orange, lemon and vanilla extract to achieve that elusive panettone taste. I urge you to seek out really good candied orange peel or make your own. That vile fruitcake stuff they sell at Christmas time should be against the law and using it will ruin this.

Unless you have baker's biceps, you really need a heavy-duty mixer to get through this formidable dough. Making the biga ahead of time, instead of just relying on yeast doing its job in an hour or two, makes a big difference in rising when a bread like this is so dense with sugars and fats.

If you don't have a traditional panettone pan, you can use a pandoro pan or tube type pan to avoid a doughy center. If you want to be totally traditional, specialty cooking supply stores sell the typical waxed, brown papers to hold the dough in the pan and help force a high rise.

And, should you have leftover panettone ... Jamie Oliver has a recipe for Christmas panettone bread pudding that is the definition of decadence! Rich, rich, rich. We've had it as our Christmas Eve dinner dessert finale four times and I recommend it. For the recipe, go here: http://www.foodnetwork.com/recipes/jamie-oliver/panettone-bread-and-butter-pudding-recipe/index.html

HOLIDAY PANETTONE BREAD

For the Biga (starter):

1 1/2 c. unbleached flour

1/2 c. water

1/2 t. instant yeast (SAF is a good one)

Dough:

3 large eggs

1/2 c. unsalted butter, cut into pieces

2 1/2 c. unbleached flour

1/3 c. sugar

5 t. instant yeast

1 1/2 t. salt

2 t. pure vanilla extract

1/2 t. Fiori di Sicilia extract, OR 1/4 t. EACH of pure orange and lemon extract

***

3/4 c. golden raisins

1/4 c. European style candied orange peel

1/4 c. pine nuts (optional)

Pearl sugar

For the Biga:

Combine the flour, water and yeast, kneading briefly to make a stiff dough. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with a towel and let rise at room temperature overnight. Alternatively, if you want to start it farther ahead, you can place the dough in the refrigerator and cover with plastic film and allow it to rise for up to 24 hours.

For the Dough:

In the bowl of a heavy mixer, combine the biga with all the remaining ingredients, except the fruit, nuts and pearl sugar. Knead the dough until it's smooth - it will be sticky at first, then come together nicely. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl, covered, in a warm place and let rise for an hour.

Remove dough to board and knead in the fruit, just until the dough accepts the fruit. Don't overhandle! Let it rest for ten minutes or so, then shape into a long log and cut in half. Place each half into the panettone pan lined with the paper or lightly greased or a lightly greased tube pan. Press pearl sugar into the top of the dough, about 2 T. each loaf. Return to a warm place to rise for 2 hours. It may not rise much, but it will become puffy and soft.

Heat oven to 350 degrees F. Bake for 45 minutes, tenting with foil if it seems to be browning too much on top. Remove from oven and turn onto a rack to cool. Once cool, store in airtight container.

**Note: if you want to make small loaves, bake at 325 degrees F for 20-25 minutes. Watch carefully, as they tend to bake quickly and you don't want them to be dry. Instead of pearl sugar, you can dust with powdered sugar while still warm (not hot).

FESTIVE PANETTONE

2010-12-07T09:58:00.000-08:00

There is nothing quite like the smell of panettone, the Italian Christmas bread found virtually everywhere in Italy when the holidays approach. In the U.S., it's becoming easier to find, although most of the pre-packaged ones can be dry and you should check the date to be sure it's as fresh as possible.

When you first slice or tear into it, the scent is elusive ... notes of citrus, vanilla, honey, flowers ... all mixing and separating ... first one, then another, then one gorgeous scent at once. Can you tell I love the stuff?

Last night I made a batch of panettoncini - mini panettone loaves. I usually bake a whole loaf, but after seeing all the sizes available in the Italian pasticceria OVA, on Milan's fashion street, I decided that individual ones would be perfect both for giving and for breakfast with my latte!

I'm on vacation at the moment, so will post my recipe when I return. Buon Natale!

~ POLENTA & SQUASH TORTA ~

2010-11-14T20:00:00.000-08:00

I came up with this recipe recently, while visiting a friend in Italy. Seeing all the vibrantly-colored squashes in the outdoor markets inspired me. I came home with a gorgeous red kuri squash, dug through the cupboards and got cooking. The prep time is about an hour, but you can make it ahead (up to two days) to the refrigeration point and finish it in the oven when you're ready. This would be a vegetarian recipe by simply omitting the bacon (gasp!), unless you're a vegetarian who doesn't eat cheese, in which case my blog is probably not for you - heeeee.

POLENTA & SQUASH TORTA

Ingredients:
1 lg. onion, chopped
3 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 T. butter
Salt
4 sprigs thyme, leaves stripped
3 T. sweet Marsala wine
5 c. vegetable broth
1 1/2 c. coarse polenta
1 lb. Kuri or Kabocha squash, prepared (see below)
4 slices meaty bacon, fried and crumbled
1/2 c, sour cream OR 3 oz. cream cheese
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, grated

Begin by preparing the squash. Quarter it (be careful), seed and peel. Cut into about 1 inch chunks and place in large saucepan.Barely cover with water and bring to a boil. Simmer gently for 25-30 minutes, or until very soft. Drain well, then mash to a puree and set aside. In a saute pan on medium-low heat, combine 2 T. of the olive oil, the tablespoon of butter, a generoussprinkling of salt, thyme leaves and the chopped onions. Saute very slowly, stirring occasionally,until onions caramelize. Take your time with this. It will take about 40 minutes. If they start browning too quickly, add a tablespoon of Marsala to slow them down and lower the heat to continue. Once the onions are caramelized, add the Marsala to deglaze the pan, then add to the squash puree, along with the crumbled bacon. While the onions are cooking, get out a large, non-stick stock pot.Combine the broth and polenta, whisking well. Bring to a boil, whisking often to keep it smooth. Reduce the heat to a bare simmer, whisking often, and cook the polenta for at least 30 minutes, until it is very thick. Remove from heat and stir in the squash puree mixture and the sour cream, stirring until smooth. Butter a deep, 10 inch pie plate or a shallow, round casserole. Pour the polenta in, smooth over the top and allow to cool completely in the refrigerator to set. You can cover it at this point and wait up to 2 days to bake the torta. Unmold the polenta torta upside down onto an oiled baking sheet, brush it with olive oil, and bake in a 375F oven for 40 minutes. Cover top of torta with grated Parmigiano cheese and bake 10 more minutes, finishing briefly under the broiler to brown the cheese. Cut into wedges and serve.
Serves 6-8 as a main course with a salad.

~SQUASH-Y SOUP ON A RAINY NIGHT~

2010-10-09T20:19:00.001-07:00

Outside, it's very evident that we live near the Olympic rain forest. The yard is a series of small lakes which I shall start naming soon, the cats are in a foul mood, a flood watch is in effect through tomorrow night and I think I see the beginnings of algae forming between my toes. The only happy ones are the ducks. They think it's marvelous! On a day and night such as this, all I want is comfort food. Today, that meant tackling the enormous hubbard squash from the garden. The thing weighed 14 lbs.! I gave a third of it away, used a third and still have a 5.2 lb. piece left. And more squashies still on the vine.

Big 'un, eh? Hubbards do tend toward the large, but it's only the two of us. So, out came the long Santoku knife and I went to work! I'd been mulling a recipe in my mind since last night. Of course, I wanted to use my own home-cured pancetta. The stuff is freaking delicious! I'm thrilled at the depth of flavor and how easy it is to make. It really only requires patience. That's a bit difficult for me, but I managed it by making two big slabs at once, so now I can start a new cure before I'm all out. Anyway, back to the soup. I cut about a 6 lb. piece of it into manageable slices, peeled and cut it into big chunks. Into an oiled baking pan they went. I painted the tops with more olive oil, sprinkled on coarse sea salt and a generous grinding of black pepper and into the oven for roasting, to intensify the flavor of the squash.

Pretty, huh? The house smelled very autumn-y. I like that word. It's cozier sounding than autumnal. But, I digress. I fried the pancetta, more than I needed to, since I always snitch a fair amount of it. A crowd of dogs and cats was gathering in the kitchen as it crisped. Sorry, guys. No sharing of this stuff! Yes, I actually do say no to them sometimes! And on I went, forgetting the dumping rain outside. Soon, there was hot, sweet, earthy soup to soothe my soul.

HUBBARD SQUASH SOUP WITH PANCETTA

Serves 8

Squash sizes vary a lot, and if you can find one of a 3 lb. size, you can halve this recipe and serve 4-6 people.

Feel free to substitute other squash varieties of a similar texture. The amount of chicken broth is variable, depending upon how thick or thin you like your soup. Nice served with crusty bread or toasts.

Ingredients:

A 5-6 lb. Hubbard squash

Olive oil - about 1/2 c. total

2 large cloves garlic, sliced

1 medium onion, chopped

1/4 t. red chili flakes

4 sprigs thyme, leaves stripped and rubbed

4 oz. pancetta, diced

6-8 c. chicken broth, preferably homemade

Approx. 1/2 c. extra virgin olive oil

Coarse sea salt

Black pepper, freshly ground

Heat oven to 375 F. Cut squash into thick slices, seed and peel. Cut squash into large chunks - about 2 x 3 inches. Place chunks in a 9 x 13 inch baking pan which has been oiled with 3 T. extra virgin olive oil. Brush squash pieces with olive oil, sprinkle coarse sea salt over them and grind a generous amount of black pepper over all. Roast, uncovered, for 45 minutes, turning halfway through.

Meanwhile, in a large stockpot, heat 3 T. olive oil over medium-low heat. Add onions, garlic and chili flakes and sauté until translucent. Add thyme leaves, remove from heat and let stand until squash is done roasting. When squash is tender and browned in places, remove from oven and add to onion mixture. Add 6 cups of the chicken broth to the pot, cover and bring to boil. Once boiling, reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Simmer for 25 minutes, until squash is very soft. Remove from heat. While soup is simmering, fry pancetta pieces in 2 T. olive oil until crispy and set aside. Using a stick blender, blend squash soup until smooth. At this point, you can decide if you need to thin the soup more or not. Add more chicken broth, as you prefer. Once blended, stir in the crispy pancetta. Allow to stand at least 20 minutes for flavors to blend before serving. Top with parsley, a bit of shredded parmesan or croutons, as desired.

FAVAS AT THE END OF SUMMER

2010-09-29T21:49:00.000-07:00

my fava plants

Every year, I choose an experimental vegetable or two for the garden. This year, I chose fava beans, cantaloupe and watermelon. In our climate, the latter two are definitely in
the 'unlikely to work' category but after last year's crazy hot summer, I thought I'd risk it. Naturally, this summer was colder and wetter than in many years, so we can move the melons to the 'complete bust' category. The cantaloupes look like tiny, fuzzy
testicles a
nd the watermelons are ... pretty leaves. But, happily, the favas were a great success!

big bowl of beans

I'd always thought of favas as long-season vegetables (true) that needed a lot of heat and dry weather (false). I saw on the seed packet that they do well in coastal climates so I gave them a try. They grew less like beans than like small trees. I could see where the Jack and the Beanstalk story might have come from! The flowers were beautiful - black and white and fragrant - out of which the bean pods slowly emerged. I usually think of fava beans as a spring food, served as a salad with pecorino cheese, mint or parsley and olive oil and salt to dress them. But, here I am in late September harvesting huge pods. I got to work shelling them. The pods are pithy and soft i
nside - the beans grow in a downy bed. The size of beans can vary in each pod.

cozy beans

Favas are fairly labor-intensive to prepare. The process is: shell the beans from the pods, blanch in boiling water for 3-5 minutes, when cool enough to handle, slip the outer skins from the beans and then proceed with recipe. It's a lot, but I enjoy the process - I just kind of use it as a meditative time. It'd definitely be more fun to do with friends around the table, though. I ended up with about five cups of fava beans from 18 plants.

Many cultures use fava beans in their cuisine. Referred to as broad beans in the UK and other countries, the beans are used in a variety of dishes. Mexico and South American countries eat them fried, as a snack. A typical dish of Puglia is fava bean puree with chicory; the salad with pecorino cheese I mentioned is popular in northern Italy, Umbria has a dish called scafata using favas and chard - Italy has many recipes using fava beans and there are interesting folklore stories surrounding this legume. In Greece, they are eaten in salads and boiled in stews. The middle eastern countries use the dried beans in falafel and also eat it in various purees. In the spirit of the ending of summer, I made this for dinner tonight, in an Italian fashion. Now I want more favas to cook with!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~

SUMMER'S END WARM FAVA BEAN SALAD
(Insalata fave alla fine dell'estate)

1/4 lb. guanciale, chopped fine (or use pancetta)
4 T. olive oil
3 small zucchini, cut into 1/2 inch cubes
4 green onions, white part only, sliced
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 T. fresh lemon juice
4 c. shelled, blanched and peeled fava beans
2 T. finely chopped Italian parsley
Freshly ground pepper
pinch salt
1/4 t. red chile flakes

Heat olive oil in large skillet and add guanciale. Cook over medium high heat until crispy. Add zucchini, green onions and garlic and saute, stirring, for about 5 minutes. Squeeze lemon juice onto vegetables, add fava beans and continue sauteeing for 2 minutes more. Remove from heat, stir in parsley, pepper and salt to taste. Pour into serving bowl and sprinkle with red chile flakes. Serve warm or cold.

Serves 6 as a side dish

~A EUROPEAN AUTUMN~

2010-09-25T21:19:00.000-07:00

Merano, Italy in spring

I'm traveling back to Italy soon, in the beautiful autumn (autunno, in Italian). My good friend in Germany has invited me again to accompany her and her friends to Merano for their twice annual gathering at a small, gemütlich (cozy, in German) hotel in the hills above Merano, with food and a wine list to die for. It also has its own health spa, pool and sauna which are gorgeous. We'll spend 3 nights there, eating, laughing, hiking and shopping in Merano. Last time, I bought the most supple, yummy leather purse for a very reasonable price. Maybe shoes this time? Then, we'll drive back to Munich for a few days before I take the train to Switzerland to visit another friend there.

The autumn is my favorite time to visit, for the beauty of the colors and the heady smell of humus and leaves, the quality of the flushed sunlight, seeing the grapes harvested as we drive through the countryside, the cows enjoying the end of the year before they're put into the barns for winter (cow bells in the early morning is a wonderful sound while still nestled under a big feather bed), the evening fog settling onto the fields like a blanket for the night and not least because of the mushroom foraging opportunities and mushroom and chestnut dishes on every menu. Pure delight for me. My face starts to hurt from all the smiling!

These places are becoming a second home to me and it feels good. It especially pleases me when someone asks me for directions and I can actually help them! Pretty cool.

Now, I'm off to my own woods to hunt for mushrooms - found some chanterelles yesterday. Have to sharpen my eyes for future foraging!

~AMUSING MY BOUCHE~

2010-09-12T11:32:00.000-07:00

Lobster Mushrooms

Hypomyces lactifluorum

Doesn't 'amuse bouche' make you smile just saying it? Today's dish doesn't qualify as a small bite, but it definitely made my mouth happy. I visited the local farmer's market this afternoon, hoping to find both New Mexico green chiles and some autumn mushrooms. Happily, I came away with both. The lobster mushrooms caught my eye because of their bright orange hue. I can't ever pass them by. I've only ever found one in the wild. Next to them was a big box of glowing, golden Chanterelles, but I went for the lobster boys, because they're harder to come by. The lobster mushroom - also known as the mushroom-eating mushroom, is actually white, but the orange-red color comes from a symbiotic fungus. The lobster mushroom is actually a mold that parasitizes a Russula or Lactarius mushroom and "eats" it, turning its ordinarily unpalatable hosts into excellent edibles. However, if the host is poisonous, so will the lobster mushroom be. Feeling risky??? You can be confident of those sold commercially, from licensed foragers, but if you're collecting on your own, be sure to confirm the host mushroom before eating.

From a culinary standpoint, they're meaty and hearty, give a gorgeous color to sauces and soups, have a hint of sea flavor which can sometimes have a slightly spicy bite and a delicately sweet depth of flavor that's very satisfying. They have a nice kind of crunch even after long cooking in soups or simmered sauces. No flobby mushroom, this one!

Well, back to my gorgeous specimens. What will it be ~ a wavy risotto, peppered just enough to counter the sweetness of the mushrooms? Or an unctuous sauce of lobster mushrooms, shallots, garlic and cream over tagliatelle? Wild mushroom soup with a hint of Port? Decisions, decisions. It won by only a spore, but I went with pasta. Sometimes, life is just so good.

CARBONARA - Fresh as it Gets!

2010-06-09T12:33:00.000-07:00

The pancetta I made with my friend has finished it's wet cure and is now dry curing. It cures for 5-7 days. It's been three days so far and it already smells amazing! I'm going to sneak some - cut a bit off the end - and make spaghetti carbonara for dinner. Mmmmmm. I have the homemade pancetta, fresh eggs from this morning, dairy cream in the bottle which has a lovely layer of thickness on the top (gimme a spoon!), loads of beautiful parsley in the garden and even some guanciale from Mario Batali's dad's shop in Seattle. The spaghetti is going to be sublime! I can already hear the angels singing.

I make a hybrid of Marcella Hazan's and Mario Batali's recipes, since I like a little from each one. Yes garlic, no wine, yes parsley, etc. I can't wait for dinner. Time to chill the wine ...

Eggs courtesy of Lola the Langshan, et al.

KRAUT ROLADEN ~ CABBAGE ROLLS, MY STYLE

2010-05-19T17:30:00.000-07:00

My German grandmother made these often as I was growing up. Oma Katie is 87 now and still makes them. Sometimes, she'd let me help tie them after she'd rolled them. I never got the hang of the roll-up back then. I loved their tender deliciousness, and my child's mind thought they were cute, fun food! Over the years, I've changed the ingredients of the filling to reflect healthier eating habits and new world flavors. Rather than pork sausage, ground beef and butter, I use chicken sausage, olive oil and ground almonds instead of bread crumbs. Though they don't taste like Oma's, I always think of her as I make them and now I have the roll-up down pat! It's still a comfort food for me. The photo is of my roladen, served on Oma's china.

Rather than using white cabbage, Oma used savoy cabbage. The wrinkles help the cabbage "stretch" as you're rolling and the end result is prettier. You'll need some kitchen twine - toothpicks won't work! Trust me on this. If you can't find ground almonds, just put a handful of raw almonds in a pie pan and roast them in a 350F oven for 10 minutes. When cool, grind them in the food processor or with a hand-crank cheese grinder.

A few years ago, my aunt compiled many of Oma's recipes and turned them into a beautiful cookbook for each of the members of our family. What a great gift. I turn to it often, not only for cooking, but because reading it and looking at the photographs brings back memories and smiles.

KRAUT ROLADEN

Ingredients:

1 lg. head of savoy cabbage

1 1/2 lbs. bulk chicken sausage

2 green onions, sliced

1 egg

1 c. ground,dry roasted almonds

1/2 t. salt

pinch of cayenne pepper

1 c. chicken broth

olive oil for frying

Carefully take apart your cabbage, leaf by leaf. It's easier to start at the stalk, slice into each leaf base and peel upward. You won't need the whole head - just about a dozen leaves. In a stockpot, bring about 4 inches of water to a boil. Add a tablespoon of salt. Place leaves, one by one, into the boiling water and cover the pan. After 2 minutes, gently turn top leaves to the bottom of the pan and remove from heat, replacing the lid. After another two minutes, drain water from cabbage. Run cold water over the leaves until cooled down. Drain again.

Combine chicken sausage, green onions, egg, ground almonds, salt and cayenne and mix well. Now, you're ready to start making the rouladen! Place one leaf on a cutting board. Cut away the tougher portion of the leaf, at the bottom. Form an oval meatball and place in center of the leaf, like so:

Tuck the sides of the leaf over the meat, then roll from the bottom up:

Now, it's time for the tie-up. Tie the rolls in two places, nice and snug, as the meat will shrink a bit during cooking. Trim the string ends short, since you'll be frying them next.

Once all the little guys are trussed, it's time to fry them briefly. Put some olive oil into a non-stick pan, heat over medium heat, then fry half of the rolls at a time until browned on both sides.

Place next to each other in a 9 x 13" pan. Pour chicken broth over them. Bake at 350F for 35 minutes, turning them over halfway through. To serve, snip the twine, place rolls on a plate and spoon some of the pan juices over the top.

Makes 10-12 rolls, depending how fat you make them!

Oma Katie, Me, my aunt Carol - 2007

SPICY HARLOTS' BAKED PENNE

2010-04-08T15:04:00.000-07:00

Since my return from 'across the pond' to visit my Italian friend, I've had pasta on the brain and in my veins (probably literally). I felt like eating something spicy today and had some sugo alla puttanesca (whore's sauce) in the pantry. There are several stories as to how the sauce got its name and various restaurateurs who claim to be the first to make it. No one really knows, but everyone knows it's delicious! In any case, it seems to have first appeared in the 1950's. My favorite story concerns the state-owned Italian brothels in the 50's. The brothels were called case chiuse, or "closed houses" because the shutters always had to be closed, to avoid offending the neighbors and passers-by. The 'civil servants' of the brothels were only allowed only one day a week to do their shopping. I suppose because their clothing, or lack thereof, would also offend? When ingredients ran short, this sauce was made from what could be found in the kitchen. Lucky for me, I didn't need to make my own today, or I'd have had to change my outfit to something more ... harlot-y.

1 lb. penne rigate pasta
1 25 oz. jar puttanesca sauce (I used Trader Joe's brand)
1 lb. hot Italian sausage
Extra virgin olive oil, about 1/3 c. total
8 large crimini mushrooms, quartered
1/2 of a large onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 c. dry white wine
1/2 t. black pepper, freshly ground
1/4 t. red chile flakes
3 c. grated parmiggiano reggiano (the real stuff!)
6 slices provolone cheese

Directions:
Heat oven to 400 F. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add 1 T. salt, then pour in penne. Cook until still quite al dente, then drain and pour back into the pot. Add the puttanesca sauce and stir to combine. In a large skillet, heat 3 T. or so of olive oil over medium high heat. Add mushrooms, sauteeing until browned. Pour in 1/2 cup of the wine and cook one minute longer. Add mushrooms to pot. In same skillet, in 2 T. olive oil, saute the onions and garlic with the pepper and red chile flakes until onions are just beginning to brown. Add them to the pot. Again in same skillet, brown the sausage, breaking up into pieces, but not too much. Add rest of wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add sausage to the pot. Gently combine all the ingredients in the pot. Pour half of the pasta mixture into a 9 x 13 baking pan. Sprinkle pasta with half of the parmiggiano. Cover with the rest of the pasta, then the rest of the parmiggiano, then lay the cheese slices on top. Bake for 20 minutes in the preheated oven until cheese is browning. Let stand a few minutes before serving.

Serves 8

WHITE LASAGNA with ASPARAGUS & CHICKEN

2010-04-08T13:30:00.000-07:00

LASAGNE BIANCHE con ASPARAGI e POLLO

It's finally SPRING! Which means we can all find lively, green, FRESH things at the market again. I mean, I love squash and cabbage, roasts and stews as much as the next person, but it's time again for bright flavors that give a taste-tease for summer bounty to come. Right now, there are young mesclun salad mixes, tiny artichokes, fresh peas and white or green asparagus vying for attention over the tulips and daffodils of springtime.

Here is a recipe I came up with after I bought some of the first local asparagus of the season. I used green, but I'm awaiting the delicious purple-stemmed asparagus we get here in Washington a bit later in the year. White asparagus would also work fine, but the flavor will be more subtle. Contrary to what most people think, thicker stalks of asparagus have more flavor and are just as tender as thin asparagus if trimmed correctly. The best way is to bend the stalk near the base and the stalk will naturally break at the division between woody bottom and tender top. So, don't be afraid to buy those thicker stalks! Assert your asparagus love and get the big ones :-) Either chicken breast or thighs can be used in this recipe. I am a dark meat girl (hey, I'm talking about chicken!) so I prefer thighs. But, for company I would use the breast, as the result is prettier, and I'd also use regular lasagna noodles and precook them the old-fashioned way, but that's just me. I know many people prefer white chicken meat, so make your own call.

Ingredients:
1 cube (1/2 c.) butter, divided
6 large scallions, cut on diagonal into 1/2 inch pieces (both green and white parts)
1 lb. green asparagus, trimmed and cut on diagonal into 1 inch pieces
2 t. fresh thyme leaves, rubbed or chopped
2 T. fresh basil leaves, chopped
3 1/2 c. chicken broth
1 1/2 c. heavy cream
1 bay leaf
4 T. flour
2 large, boneless chicken breasts, boiled and cut into 1/4 inch strips OR use 5 boneless chicken thighs
1 9 oz. pkg. no-cook lasagna noodles
2 c. fresh, finely grated Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese (or Grana Padano)

Directions:
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add scallions and cook until wilted, stirring often. Transfer to a bowl. Melt 2 more tablespoons butter in same pan and add asparagus and thyme. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Saute about 4 minutes, until asparagus is crisp-tender, stirring often. Add to bowl with the scallions, then add chopped basil leaves to the vegetable mixture and toss gently to combine. Into a large saucepan on medium heat, put remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and melt. Add 4 tablespoons flour and stir with whisk until bubbly. Gradually add the chicken broth, stirring constantly, then add cream. Bring to a low boil and cook for about three minutes. Sauce will be thickened, but not too thick. The lasagna noodles need the moisture to cook. Remove from heat and set aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter a 9 x 13" pan. Pour 1/4 of the white sauce into bottom of pan. Lay lasagna noodle sheets on the sauce, breaking gently to fit closely, if necessary. Scatter 1/3 of the vegetable mixture over the lasagna, then top with 1/3 of the cooked chicken, making sure each future piece will have some chicken. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of the cheese on the layer, then repeat with noodles, veggies, chicken, cheese two more times. Finish with lasagne noodles on top. Pour remaining white sauce over the noodles, then top with remaining 1/2 cup of cheese. Cover pan tightly with foil. Bake 45 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until top is bubbling and beginning to brown, about five minutes. Let stand a few minutes before cutting into serving pieces.

CHARCUTERIE ~ Meat Transformed

2010-01-07T19:10:00.000-08:00

Charcuterie ~ the craft of salting, smoking and curing meat to transform it into something better than its beginnings. The tastes and shapes make it seem like magic, but anyone can make that magic happen. My foodie friend, Tiffany, and I got together this week to see what we could create. Since she's from Louisiana, the theme this time was New Orleans style recipes. We settled on making Tasso, a cured and spiced ham used in many dishes, from jambalaya to sauces to etouffe, and a mild Andouille sausage.

Tasso, dredged in salt and spices

Freshly made Andouille sausages

We bought all the meat, the wood chips for smoking, the hog casings and salt, then hurried back to start the mixtures.The scent of spices was heavy and heady in the kitchen! Cayenne, mace, allspice, thyme, white pepper, garlic, paprika, onion. Swoony smells! We started with the Tasso ~ making two different recipes so we could compare results. One called for "pink salt" - a curing salt that is Valentine pink, for a 4 hour cure. The other relies solely on salt and spices and a 3-5 day cure in the refrigerator. That one is still curing. The kitchen chemistry always fascinates me ~ what happens to the meat after a few hours. The texture and color change; flavor development and intensity. Barely pink pork turns rosy after curing, then reddish after smoking.

Starting the smoking process - soaked alder & hickory chips below

One thing we learned: it's virtually impossible to make sausage without LOTS of sexual innuendos flying ... Don't squeeze it so tight ... Wait! We're gonna have a blowout! ... It's not fitting in the hole ... Oh, that's a nice fat one ... how long do you want them? ... try to push against it as it's coming out ... twist it one way and then the other ... Hmmmmmmmmm. At times, we were laughing so hard, we could hardly hold onto the sausage! HAHAHAHA! When sausage and wine collide, only one thing can happen.

We had to taste-test our sausage before stuffing, didn't we???

Our hard work and laughter paid off in nearly perfect results. Okay, it WAS perfect. I'm just trying to be modest. As we tasted our meats, we could hardly believe that WE made this! The fat content was just right, the meats were juicy, spices were well-balanced and the shapes ... well, we know how to work a sausage. It's all in the handling, baby.

As a note on equipment, we used the Pro KitchenAid mixer with grinder and sausage-stuffing attachments. It leaves something to be desired and didn't work as well as it should have and has design flaws, so next time we will likely try another type of meat grinder and stuffer.

We're already plotting our next meat fest and choosing recipes. One I want to make is sturgeon sausage. Tiffany wants to make a chicken and green onion sausage. We still have 75 feet of hog casings, so lots of experimenting to come!

RÖTE GRÜTZE - German Berry Dessert

2009-12-28T19:59:00.000-08:00

Röte grütze translates as "red grits". Which does nothing, really, to describe the dessert. It's a kind of loose, fruit pudding which can be made with berries, cherries, plums or a combination. This is a dessert often served in summer, when berries are ripe. But it's also served in winter time, using bottled or frozen berries. In either season, this is a bright ending to a dinner due to its slight tartness and fruit base. It is traditionally served cold, with heavy cream poured on top. Or, you can use whipped cream or nothing at all. A similar Scandinavian dessert is called rodgrod. Some recipes strain the mixture so it's smooth. I prefer fruit pieces and I don't mind the seeds. If you want to strain, go for it.

This year, my hubby requested it for dessert on Christmas and I may make it again for New Year's Day dinner.
My recipe here uses frozen fruit, for winter desserts.

Ingredients:
16 oz. pkg. frozen raspberries in syrup, thawed
16 oz. pkg. frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 t. vanilla
1/4 c. rum
8 oz. loose frozen raspberries, thawed
1 c. cream

Directions:
In large saucepan, combine both types of thawed berries in syrup with cornstarch and whisk together until completely smooth. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Raspberries will break up as you go. The mixture will turn from milky to clear and start to thicken (5 - 7 minutes). When mixture is completely clear, remove from heat. Stir in vanilla and rum. Then gently fold the whole raspberries in. Pour into 4 dessert bowls and refrigerate several hours until set. The consistency should be of a loose pudding. Serve with a pitcher of cream for each person to pour on top, as they like.

MEDITERRANEAN MEATBALLS w/ dipping sauce

2009-12-28T19:52:00.000-08:00

I played with this recipe for years before hitting on what I wanted it to be. Then, just as I thought it was perfect, I stumbled upon a variation I like just as well. Tonight I had to make a dish for a potluck, so these meatballs were my choice. But, I forgot to get some feta! Instead, I used pecorino ... and I love it! So, I guess it's an either / or choice that you can make. Instead of frying the meatballs, I bake them. Much easier and they turn out more tender. But if you prefer to fry, go for it. Enjoy them!

Ingredients:
1 lb. ground lamb
1.5 lbs. ground beef (85/15 is good)
3 slices substantial white or wheat bread, crusts removed
Approx. 1/2 c. milk
1/4 lb. feta OR pecorino cheese, crumbled or shredded
1 c. kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
1 egg, beaten
1/2 T. cinnamon
1/2 t. red pepper flakes
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
Olive oil for pan

Dipping Sauce:

8 oz. plain yogurt, preferably Greek strained style
1/4 c. finely chopped Italian parsley
3 cloves roasted garlic

Directions:
Soak the crustless bread slices in milk; gently squeeze them out and crumble them into a large bowl. Add all of the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix with your hands, gently but thoroughly. Don't over mix or the meatballs will be pasty. Heat the oven to 350 F. Oil a large cookie sheet or jelly roll pan. Oil your hands and form the mixture into meatballs of a size a bit bigger than a golf ball. You should end up with about 36-40 meatballs. Place them on the cookie sheet in rows about a half inch apart.

Bake for 45 minutes until medium brown, but still tender. Remove from oven, let cool 5 minutes, then transfer to a serving bowl. Meatballs can be served hot or at room temperature, with dipping sauce alongside.

For Dipping Sauce:

Mash roasted garlic cloves with the chopped parsley. Add yogurt and stir well to combine. Keep cold until ready to serve with meatballs.

BOOK TO PASS THE WINTER TIME

2009-12-28T17:10:00.000-08:00

When I was in Utah, I made my pilgrimage to the King's English bookstore, which is truly one of my favorite places on the planet. I've written in detail about it in a previous blog. As usual, books seem to just present themselves to me when I'm there. This time was no exception. I came away with several, one of which I went specifically to buy there ~ Finding Beauty in a Broken World by Terry Tempest Williams. I thought maybe they'd have a signed copy and they did. Terry is a Utah native and strongly connected to the desert landscape. She is an amazing woman and a writer of great depth. Her books explore the natural world and our connection to it and within it. She approaches these spaces and inner spirit with prose that captures both the simple and the sacred. I have had the pleasure of meeting with her a few times, and heard her read and speak. Her passion is conveyed in the unique way she has of reading her own words and in the conviction in her voice as she speaks of the need to preserve wildness, bring it into our lives and learn more about ourselves by being in it.

So, I look forward to savoring this book, reading slowly and thoughtfully. It'll keep me cozy this winter.

SELF ~ INDULGENCE ... butter, kisses, stargazing and silk

2009-11-06T17:51:00.000-08:00

I admit it ... I'm good at this. Perhaps too good. But, I notice a definite wariness in this country of indulging oneself, even more so in the current economic climate. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting you go spend buckets of money you don't have on fleeting pleasures (although fleeting pleasures are some of the finest!). My belief is that, when we treat ourselves as special beings, we bring out the best we have to give and go forth smiling from within. Denying oneself pleasure just for the sake of it does no one any good.

We all have our pleasures ~ WHY must they be "guilty"? Maybe the Puritans and Pilgrims did too complete a job of convincing Americans that we must suffer for our rewards. In that case, there must have been one hell of a confession/penance/guilt fest over that first Thanksgiving feast! HA! Stuffing, fowl and self-flagellation. What fun!

Several years ago, I brought a package of fine pastry to work with me. When it was time for my break, I brought it out, put it on a plate, made myself some Darjeeling tea in a pretty cup and took it outside to enjoy. I read my new book and, for fifteen minutes, was a world away in a happy cloud. When I came back inside, my friend said, "You know, Gayle, I admire you for being good to yourself. I always save the nice cookies and good things for company. You've inspired me to have some for myself." I said, "Yes! For NO reason! Do it!" It's such a little thing, but it can make you feel so good. The French understand this very well.

Friends of mine who are single often tell me that there isn't any point in cooking just for themselves. But there IS a point. It is another way of loving yourself, honoring your worth, caring for yourself the way that, so often, we are willing to do for others while neglecting our own well-being. And that... will eventually catch up with you, showing you through illness or dis-ease of heart that you're ignoring your core. Give yourself those moments of joy ~ whether it's meditation, smoking a fine cigar, reading till the wee hours (on a work night), eating that flaky pastry with a smile, staying in your jammies all day (maybe even with a special someone) ... whatever makes your heart warm and fuzzy and restores you.

The other day, I listened to Nigella Lawson expound on indulgences and I couldn't agree more! Listen to her radio interview here, and find the recipes, too.

http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=114320079

So, what will YOU do for yourself today ?

ANOTHER HAIKU

2009-10-10T15:02:00.000-07:00

I don't know why, but poetry is on my mind and swirling around. Had another haiku give itself to me and I liked it. The colors this year are especially nice, since we're having mild autumn weather - no wind or rain yet - so the trees are still dressed in their leaves.

Poplar paintbrushes,

dipped yellow in nature's paint,

play color-music.

GNB

NO MORE 'GOURMET' MAGAZINE ?!? ACCKK !

2009-10-09T13:46:00.001-07:00

While driving home this evening, I heard the news on NPR that Conde Nast is cancelling publication of Gourmet magazine. Are they crazy? The first food magazine in America, it was started in 1941. Admittedly, the 1990's were not the magazine's high point, but once Ruth Reichl was appointed editor, the class and substance returned. Ruth's Twitter was, reportedly, “Thank you all SO much for this outpouring of support. It means a lot. Sorry not to be posting now, but I’m packing. We’re all stunned, sad.” Along with Gourmet, the company is also cancelling 'Elegant Bride', 'Modern Bride' and the parenting magazine 'Cookie'. Couldn't they find some other equally vapid ones to eliminate? I can't stand it!

So many wonderful writers were first read by American cooks in the pages of Gourmet. Among them MFK Fisher, Samuel Chamberlain and Waverly Root. In its pages, one could read about exotic locales and foods not yet seen in our markets, nor heard of; the story behind the restaurants and chefs; where and how ingredients came to be and the wonderful recipes go without saying. I first started reading Gourmet when I was ten and dreamed of tasting various classic dishes as well as hoping to experience new tastes. I fantasized about traveling to destinations around the globe. Before my virgin tongue ever touched its first lick of wine, I was seduced by the bottles and descriptions. A nascent food fanatic was born. From pancakes to coq au vin to the gorgeous Christmas cookies, I'll miss its inspiration so much.

The American kitchen will be much the poorer with the disappearance of Gourmet.

PUPPY BREATH TO ICICLES

2009-09-24T17:00:00.000-07:00

A simple idea ~ write about the things that make you happy. I read a friend's list (ASlowRead) and was inspired to join the fun. For the past 24 hours, I've added to my list and, occasionally, startled my dogs when I suddenly shout "moon"! or something else that comes to mind as I'm going about what I'm doing. I'm pretty sure they think I've finally fallen off the edge.

Herewith is my list ~ nowhere near complete, nor will it ever be, thankfully!

HAPPY THINGS

the color green

thunderstorms

raw oysters

colors!

wine

Italy

speaking Italian or German

bonfires

fog

snow

the scent of desert sage

gathering fresh eggs

a new pen (s)

naps

Reggie, my favorite cat (sshhh, don't tell)

a hand written letter in the mail

skinny dipping

the cheese counter at DeLaurenti's, or ANYwhere

owls

firewood stacked for winter

creating jewelry and paper arts

being awakened by my husband for some

middle of the night skin on skin

polka dots and ruffled edges

books

finding mushrooms, edible or not

aspen trees

a pot of hot rice

writing

the smell of roasting green chiles

red chile ristras

flower bouquets from the garden

yoga stretches

tide pools

finding cool stones

the sound of wind

of purring

of cello music

of something yummy bubbling on the stove

lakes

hugs

learning something new

TODAY'S HARVEST

2009-09-05T18:29:00.000-07:00

Bright, vibrant color and fresh flavors that are true to taste are the best benefits of having a vegetable garden! I didn't know what was out there, nor what I would cook. So, I went out to see what the garden had in store for me. As you can see from the pic, I got quite a haul! The dishes I decided to cook were a Mangalore chicken curry and Fall River Vegetable Stew, from the Moosewood cookbook. The flavors are rich and full ~ one of our summer favorites. Just stirring it makes me feel healthy! I'll use the rest of the potatoes (planted five varieties) in an oyster stew.

Besides the veggies, I brought in great bunches of flowers to put in vases throughout the house. I always like to have enough flowers in the garden to be able to cut bouquets for my spirit. I hope that, whether or not you have your own garden, that you're taking in the late summer days and enjoying their energy. I wish I could have all of you at my table!

A FISH TALE

2009-08-20T09:03:00.000-07:00

I came home the other night to a large-size surprise. My hubby said, "Oh, by the way, I bought you a tuna. It barely fits in the fridge." "A whole tuna?" "Yep." Oooookay. So, out of the work clothes and into a rubber suit, I'm thinking. I looked in the fridge. The thing was huge - 31 inches long - 20 lbs.

I'd never dressed out a tuna before, and I knew they were different from other fish. Their bones are arranged in a T, not in a long line like other fish. So, off to Youtube I went. There were various methods, but I found one with clear, short steps. The instructor called it "carking" a tuna. If you look up the work 'cark', it means: to annoy, worry or vex. Hmmm. We watched it together three times, to be sure we got it. Then, out to the picnic table we went, prepared to be vexed.

It turned out to be a fun process and I think I did a pretty good job for my first time. Ripping the tough skin off was particularly satisfying. I got some nice loins off of it, fairly cleanly, and there was plenty left for the cats to munch and tear at. I was surrounded by salivating felines, all amazed at my giant catch. I hate waste, so although others might throw away the trimmings, we grilled some of the bones with meat, saved some for tuna salad and gave the rest to the kitties. There had to be at least two pounds of meat left on the cutaway parts. Then, we grilled the head.

"Why does she keep calling me 'Chuck'?"

Charlie was well-used and delicious! I'm ready for my next fishy adventure.

SAKE IN PINK

2009-08-16T07:59:00.000-07:00

This beautiful bottle of cloudy sake just begged me to buy it. This one is meant to be served cold, which was a new experience for me. I know little about sakes, I have only sampled a few. The taste was delicate, slightly sweet, but elusive. The card which came with it suggested a cocktail to be made with the sake, which is the glass next to the bottle in the photo. I floated the sake on top of tropical juice. It was good, but seemed a waste of lovely sake, as it totally masked the flavor.

I just wanted to post this photo, as I found the colors and milkiness so beautiful.

NIGHT CALLS

2009-08-13T21:03:00.000-07:00

In the dark center of the night, coyote calls. Yipping, howling, barks of energetic communion with their pack ... the sound echoes back to me here. I stand under the summer sky, red-tinged Mars overhead, and listen. Tonight, I can hear the pups yipping, too. Imitating their elders in a higher pitch, shorter calls. The whole group is barking at once, like a bunch of Italians after dinner. I feel blessed to hear them, to know they are out there, living wild.

MY CHINESE SPARERIBS

2009-08-13T14:40:00.000-07:00

Not the red, five-spice type, but the brown, soy kind. Tender, deeply-flavored and ohhhh, that yummy cartilage part. Mmmmmmmm.

Though the ingredients list is long, the dish comes together quickly.

INGREDIENTS-

2 lbs. spareribs, cut into 2-3 inch pieces

3 T. mirin (sweet cooking seasoning - find it in the Asian section)

3 T. each light and dark soy sauce

1 t. black bean sauce

2 T. brown sugar

2 t. sesame oil

1/4 c. water

1/2 inch slice ginger, peeled and grated finely

1 t. red chile paste, or to taste

2 T. cornstarch

1/4 t. ground black pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 green onions, sliced, white and green parts separated

Sesame seeds, to garnish

DIRECTIONS-

Put spareribs in a colander and pour 2 quarts boiling water over them, to seal in juices. In a saute pan, brown the ribs in vegetable oil. Be sure to brown them well. Set aside. In a large bowl, combine all remaining ingredients except sesame seeds and green part of onions. Mix very well with a whisk. Adjust as needed to suit your taste.

Add spareribs to the sauce and allow to marinate at least 2 hours. 6 hours is better.

Pour ribs and sauce into a baking dish, in one layer. Cover tightly with foil and bake at 325F for one hour fifteen minutes. Garnish with sesame seeds and green onions and serve with steamed white rice.

VANISHING

2009-08-07T19:25:00.000-07:00

Once in a while somebody fights for breath.

He stops, getting in everyone's way.

The crowd flows around, muttering

about the flow of crowds,

but he just fights for breath.

Inside, there may be growing

a sea monster within a sea monster,

or a raven named

Nevermore,

or a huge muteness of fairly tales,

the wood-block baby that gobbles up everything.

Inside, there may be growing

an abandoned room,

bare walls, pale squares where pictures hung,

a disconnected phone,

feathers settling on the floor

the Encyclopedists never moved out and

Dostoyevsky never found the place,

lost in the landscape

where only surgeons

write poems.

~ Miroslav Holub - Czech poet and physician

excerpt from the poem 'Vanishing Lung Syndrome'

What's this all about? It's about a rare syndrome - not enough understood to be a disease, but enough to kill. It's about radiographs, hospital gowns, timelines and statistics. It's about waking up one day and finding out that every day suddenly means more and that something you never think about ~ breathing ~ is now all you think about. It's about my friend.

He is practically my brother. We think & say the same things at the same time, share a wicked, sarcastic sense of humor, seek out the finer pleasures life has to offer (even when it isn't good for us), bring each other up when down. Besides my husband, he is the only person on the planet who knows EVERYthing about me. And loves me, anyway. That means a lot.

He is 39 years old, has hepatitis A & C, found out a year ago that he's HIV positive and has already survived a rare childhood cancer. How much is one being supposed to have to endure? There is no answer. This is one example of why I don't believe in the Christian version of God. And, please, refrain from telling me why he exists and why I should believe. I don't want to hear it.

The poem excerpt above was written by a Czech doctor who was diagnosed with vanishing lung syndrome. When his scalpel failed him, he turned to his pen. It seems to me that, when we are alone, words and the thoughts that produce them are all we have to navigate our journey. It's what I am doing here. How I try to explain the inexplicable to myself. It helps keep me afloat on the waves I know are ahead. I'll be in the boat with him.

THE ZING & THE OINK

2009-07-12T12:27:00.001-07:00

Guanciale ~ cured pig cheeks. You still with me? DeLaurenti's in Pike Place Market was the site of some serious food nirvana for me this week. Italy condensed, in taste. I swear, you can hear Italian food angels singing in that place. Just look at the olive oil section ...

I was after the guanciale made by Salumi (run by Mario Batali's father) in Seattle. Salumi is an artisan Italian meat producer and I am grateful they're based in Seattle. I bought a half pound of what I think of as maiale d'oro - pork gold, envisioning savory pastas and soups in my future. A pasta dish was already building itself in my mind. $96 and a heavy bag later, (not $96 for the pasta, but for alllll of the goodies) I headed for my favorite produce vendors and came away with heads of fresh garlic and basil, and some gorgeous tomatoes that had spent all their days growing in sunshine. Why is it that I even have to mention that? ALL tomatoes should grow up this way! Don't get me started.

I also bought a bag of strascinati pasta from Naples. This pasta is shaped like thick potato chips. The chewy bite of it is marvelous. Another similar type is called cencioni. Now, the dish was nearly done in my mind. Pecorino for zing. And the oink ... the salty, piggy taste of the guanciale. Mmmmmmmm!

So, tonight, after a busy week ... it was time to cook all these wonderful ingredients. I walked out into the night garden, smelling the sweet honeysuckle blossoms on the air. I let the evening light illuminate a white shape and pulled a sweet Walla Walla onion out of the ground. Sweet, sharp, green, earthy ... delicious ~

SUMMERTIME PASTA WITH GUANCIALE

(Strascinati con guanciale)

8 oz. strascinati or cencioni pasta

3 oz. guaniciale, finely cubed or chopped **

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 small sweet onion, finely chopped

1/4 t. freshly ground black pepper

3 medium ripe tomatoes, peeled and quartered

3/4 c. fresh basil leaves, lightly packed

1 T. extra virgin olive oil

1/2 t. sea salt

4 oz. grated Pecorino Romano cheese

In large saute pan over medium-high heat, cook guanciale until crisp. Lower heat to medium. Add garlic and onion and saute until translucent. Add salt and pepper. Remove from heat. Bring heavily salted water to boil in large pot, then add pasta and cook until al dente. Meanwhile, put tomatoes, basil and olive oil into bowl of food processor. Pulse until fairly smooth. Once pasta is done, turn of heat, drain and return to pot on the turned off burner. Pour sauce over pasta, stirring gently, until sauce thickens a little. Serve in bowls, with pecorino grated on top.

3-4 servings

** pancetta can be used in place of guanciale, but don't use bacon, or it won't be anywhere near the same

MANGIARE ~ ESSEN ~ EATING

2009-05-16T12:54:00.001-07:00

Tomorrow I leave for Europe - Munich, Castelrotto and Merano, Italy and then to the Lake Geneva area. Food, wine and friends, here I come! Don't hold it against me if I don't come back home. In that spirit, I thought I'd write about my favorite dishes I hope to encounter, with a focus on late spring, seasonal ingredients.

Asparagus will be at its peak, both white and green. Although the tender spears and delicate taste of the white is lovely, I prefer the earthy, grassy flavor of green asparagus. Paired with freshly-made gnocchi, my mouth waters in anticipation. In this country, people seek out the skinny, pencil-thin spears, wrongly assuming they'll be more tender. The truth is, so long as the asparagus is fresh, thicker spears have more intense flavor and are just as tender as the thin ones. As usual, break the stem at its weakest point, and the woody part will be left behind. You can save those pieces to use in making a stock for a future asparagus soup, discarding them when you strain the broth.

Not strictly seasonal, but a personal must for me, is haxen. Spit-roasted pork shank. Just look at that crispy skin! Heaven! My favorite place to eat this is in the Bavarian countryside, at a little restaurant in Kirchbichl. It is perfect. They serve it with either knödel and kraut (a bread dumpling and sauerkraut) or with a platter of various salads. We always order the salad. It makes us feel a tiny bit less hedonistic for eating such a load of meat! Of course, one should wash it all down with beer, but I don't like beer, so I have it with a heavy red wine, to cut the fat.

A beautiful lemon-herb risotto tastes bright and fresh in spring. When I make it this time, in my friend's enviable kitchen, I'm going to add some shredded zucchini. A bit of extra color and a nice texture, I think. I'll post the recipe when I return.

Lest you think I've forgotten dessert, I'll tell you about a sweet ending I love, from the South Tyrol ~ germknödel. Okay, it doesn't translate well into English, if said phonetically. It's pronounced with a hard 'g' and hard 'k' - say 'gayrm-knay-del'. This is a sweet, yeasty dumpling, filled with plum preserves or stewed plums. Over the dumpling is poured a vanilla sauce with poppy seeds and browned, melted butter. Some people eat it as a main course. It is HEAVY and filling. It's often to be found at high mountain-top restaurants where, after a long hike, you feel as if you could eat a horse. And, horse is indeed served in Europe. But that's another story.

There are other dishes I look forward to, like fresh fava bean and pecorino salad, fruit with zabaglione and grilled lake trout from Lac Leman. So off I go, to food, wine and friends. Enjoy your late spring days ~

CRAWFISH BOIL

2009-03-29T06:53:00.000-07:00

My friend, Tiffany, is a Louisiana girl and every year for her birthday, she has a crawfish boil. Well, living in the rainy northwest wasn't going to stop her, so she ordered 150 lbs. of live Louisiana crawfish and got a party going!

Even with sleet falling, we had a fun and SPICY time. I don't know how many I peeled and ate, but my hands still smell like crawfish!

The races were fun - don't blink! Only one crawfish made it to the outside circle and was a two-time winner. Alas, it was not mine. Enjoy the silliness - I just wish you could smell that delicious steam!

http://smilebox.com/playBlog/4f4451794f5445774e773d3d0d0a&blogview=true

~A SPRING GIFT~

2009-03-23T17:29:00.000-07:00

Birds have been a theme for me, lately. I saw my first loons and eastern cardinals this week, when I was in Maine.

Today, as I was walking toward the coop to put the chickens to bed, I found this beautiful, green egg on the path. I picked it up, looked overhead, noting there were no trees from which it could have fallen. It was just out in the open. I mentally took a roll

call of all the birds in the garden at this time of year, then consulted my bird references. The only one that fits is an egg from a Stellar's jay. Perhaps it's the first laying year for a female jay and she was taken by surprise? I know our newest chickens are always appalled when they lay their first egg and we can find the eggs almost anywhere until they "get it".

Whatever the scientific reasons for why this egg was where I found it, I take it as an offering from nature. To remind me of the renewal, growth and vitality of springtime.

COOKING WITH FERNET BRANCA - Book Review

2009-03-14T14:39:00.000-07:00

How do I describe a book whose plot is irrelevant, with a main character who is a completely unreliable narrator? The first thing to say is that it is impeccably written and FUNNY. I can't remember the last time I laughed so much while reading.
Gerald has a wicked sense of petty revenge which he carries out against his annoying, female neighbor, Marta. Both are renting houses in Italy, separate abodes but too near by about 50 meters. Language barriers, misunderstandings and a morbid fascination combine hilariously in this curious relationship.

The two of them trade volleys in this battle by cooking vicious recipes for each other. Gerald's are carefully planned, nasty concoctions meant to stun. Garlic and Fernet Branca ice cream, anyone? Marta's are "Voynovian" delicacies no less hideous. The descriptions of both food and people are original and clever. And did I mention funny?

I rarely say this, but, in the right hands, this could be one hell of a great movie. This book is a delight for any reader, writer or cook. If you happen to be all three, well...you must read this book!

HAMA HAMA !

2009-02-15T15:49:00.000-08:00

Ten points if you know to what I'm referring. Okay, I guess the photo gives it away. Hama Hama oysters, from Hood Canal here in Washington state. Aren't they gorgeous? Their shells, beautifully iridescent, the ruffled edges of their bodies, lying seductively in their liquor. God, I love oysters ... LOVE them. This makes me an ostreaphile. Since words are almost as wonderful as food to me, this new word makes me happy.

"Because an oyster, like a lover, first captures you by bewitching your mind." -Rowan Jacobsen

After the oyster fest at my friend's house 2 weeks ago, I've experienced a reinvigorated oyster-tracking sense. And, with a trip to Maine in the offing, I'm sharpening my palate in preparation for some Glidden Points, Damariscotta and Pemaquids. Oysters are fun food - to say and to eat. Then, there's always the sensual, taboo angle of eating something alive. So full of briny life. As the author of A Geography of Oysters, Rowan Jacobsen, says...eating one is "like a little chi bomb. Perhaps that surge we feel is a temporary explosion of life force, and those desires we feel a quite natural wish to share the wealth." Maybe that explains the aphrodisiac angle. Although, do we really need a reason to feel amorous when eating oysters? I don't! I highly recommend Jacobsen's book. Inspired writing and descriptions even a non-oyster lover could appreciate.

So, back to the Hama Hamas. "Hamma Hamma" means "stinky stinky" in the Skokomish Indian dialect. But this refers to the Hamma Hamma River, which reeks of decaying salmon each fall during spawning season, not to the oysters. This river pours from the Olympic National Forest into the Hood Canal. This is a pristine, unpolluted environment and the oysters love it. It's a rough patch to grow up in, and their shells show it. Tough, thick, covered in barnacles and the odd stone stuck on by seaweed, they speak of strength. And inside ... pure crunchy ocean in your mouth. As I chewed mine, I tasted cucumber with the peel on, citrus and salt, herby brine. I think those afraid to try a raw oyster think it will be slimy and fishy. Wrong. Silky seawater you can chew - that's how I describe oysters. And the myriad nuances of their flavors, based on what type and where they lived make each one unique. No one forgets their first raw oyster, just as no one forgets their first kiss or first lover.

So, from oyster heaven, I'm signing off to go shuck and ... never mind.

PICTURE PERFECT - CONSERVE

2009-01-21T18:38:00.000-08:00

Jars of summer honey,

in a window at Pike Place Market - Seattle.

HOME-CURED SALT COD

2009-01-19T21:51:00.000-08:00

Making your own salt cod is so easy - and brings you a fresher, more succulent piece of fish, with a deeper taste than many commercial types. Unfortunately, here in America, most of those I've purchased taste a lot like the wooden box in which they're packed. And at a premium price! I got a good deal on fresh, wild, true cod today, so I came home and started some salt cod.
Salting the fish reduces the water content, retards bacterial growth and results in more flavor and body. From the Vikings to the Basques, Spanish and Italians, preserved cod has been a staple of the larder. Cod prepared this way will keep for many months refrigerated, wrapped well to protect it. Once dehydrated and salted, it must be reconstituted in several changes of cold water over about 24 hours before use in recipes.
Whether you use it for brandade, fritters, stewed baccala or eat it straight in a salad, you'll find that salting your own makes for the best-tasting dishes.
Give it a try and have fun!

Ingredients:
2 lbs. fresh, skinless cod fillets
1 cup kosher salt, for dredging
Cheesecloth

Directions:
Dredge the fish generously in the salt, pressing the salt firmly into the flesh, so the entire surface and crevices are coated in salt. Wrap the fillets in cheesecloth and place on a rack in a non-reactive pan. Refrigerate the fish, uncovered, for 24 hours. Remove cod from cheesecloth and rinse in cold water to remove salt. Pat dry and re-wrap in clean cheesecloth. Refrigerate, on a rack, uncovered for 4-7 days. Thinner fillets can go 4 days, inch thick pieces should go for 7 days. Pour off any juices that accumulate under rack. As fish cures, it will become more opaque and stiff. Once to this point, the cod is ready to use. If not using immediately, remove cheesecloth and wrap fish in butcher paper and then in a freezer bag and keep refrigerated for up to 2 months. When ready to use the cod, soak it in cold water for 18 to 24 hours, changing the water three times. Pat dry and proceed with chosen recipe.

RISOTTO BIANCO

2009-01-10T21:30:00.000-08:00

A "white" risotto I made tonight. The only color comes from the light parts of the celery and a few flecks of rosemary from the rosemary Asiago. The Asiago is a nutty and a bit sweet, so tames the tang of the pecorino. It's a creamy, cheesy dish - lovely served with simple grilled chicken or by itself, with a salad. So, put on some easy music, sway and stir and then take a bite of saucy risotto....mmmmmmm.

RISOTTO BIANCO
3 T. butter
Half of a large onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/2 c. chopped celery and leaves from center of the head (light parts only)
1/8 t. white pepper
1 3/4 c. risotto rice - pref. vialone nano or carnaroli, but arborio works fine
5 c. chicken broth, heated
2/3 c. dry white wine
1/3 c. cream
3 oz. pecorino cheese, grated
2 oz. rosemary Asiago or reg. Asiago, grated
Salt to taste

In a heavy-bottomed stock pot over medium heat, melt butter, then add onions, garlic and celery. Saute until softened. Add pepper and rice, stirring to coat the grains well. One cup at a time, add the heated chicken broth, stirring often, until broth is almost absorbed. Repeat with remaining broth. Add wine and stir until half absorbed. Check rice for doneness. It should be soft, but with a chewy bite at the center. If necessary, add a little more hot water or wine. It will depend on the type and dryness of the rice used. Once rice has the right texture, add the cream and grated cheeses, stirring just until cheese is melted. Check for salt, adding if necessary. Serve immediately, while still velvety and saucy.

POEM- The Old Bench

2009-01-09T17:10:00.000-08:00

Wood worn to a sheen,

smooth as skin,

Gathering heat from my hand.

This bench their retreat

from decades of living the world.

Together.

A word, a song, a look.

They know each other

like a tree knows the soil in its roots.

They know,

it will end like this.

GNB - 2009

EUROPE PHOTOS

2009-01-02T19:21:00.000-08:00

This seemed the easiest way, for now, to post photos of the recent trip. There are around 240 pics, so be warned! Unfortunately, this method didn't allow me to write captions. I hope you'll enjoy the scenes. If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask me. The photos are basically in order, country to country. I started in Switzerland on my own for a week, then met Jim in Munich for the remainder of the trip. So many delightful and delicious experiences!

Make a Smilebox slideshow

SMOKED BLEU SPREAD

2008-12-24T21:34:00.000-08:00

A quick spread for crusty bread or crackers. It's also great with sliced pears or apples.

Ingredients:

4 oz. crumbly blue cheese of your choice, cut into a few pieces

1/3 c. sour cream

4 oz. cream cheese

1 scallion, chopped (both white and green parts)

2 t. smoked chipotle Tabasco sauce

Directions: Put all ingredients into food processor and whiz it up until nearly smooth. Some blue cheese chunks should still be left. DONE! This tastes best if made several hours in advance, to let the flavors "marry".

GLÜHWEIN UND GLÜCK !

2008-11-27T07:05:00.000-08:00

In celebration of Christmas and my upcoming trip, I wanted to post a recipe for Glühwein / glow wine. It's a traditional hot, spiced wine drink served during winter in Germany, especially at Christmas. One of several hot alcoholic drinks in which to indulge, it is my favorite. Other drinks are Jägertee (hunter's tea), apfelwein (apple wine), Seehund (sea hound) and Punschglühbowle (punch glow bowl).

Glühwein is available commercially. Most liquor stores in the US carry it during the holidays. But the bottled version is often too sweet and tastes flat. And it gives you one hell of a headache! Many countries have their version of mulled or hot spiced wines. Here is my recipe. PROST!

GAYLE'S GLÜHWEIN

1-750 ml full-bodied red wine

1/2 c. brandy

1 stick cinnamon, broken in half

6 whole cloves

Seeds of one cardamom pod

2 slices lemon peel (no pith)

4 slices orange peel

Half of an orange, sliced (no pith)

1/3 c. sugar

In a non-reactive, large saucepan, add wine and all ingredients except the sugar. Over medium heat, bring mixture to just below boiling point. Turn off heat, cover and allow to steep for 10-15 minutes. Remove orange slices and set aside. Remove spices and peel and discard. Return orange slices to pan and heat until hot but not boiling. Serve in pre-warmed mugs with a cinnamon stick, if you like. If you won't be serving it immediately, keep covered to preserve the alcohol.

See you all when I return in 3 weeks. Enjoy the holidays to the fullest, whatever you do and however you celebrate. Frohe Weihnacht!!!

EARLY FEAST

2008-11-20T18:49:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving will be a bit different here this year. With the upcoming travels, we decided to have our feast this Saturday. That way, we can enjoy the turkey and its delightful leftovers all week long, before we leave. It's become a recent tradition that my stepbrother spends turkey day with us and it was tough to tell him 'no' this time. He's in the Marines, about to start flight school, so joining us early wasn't a possibility. We'll miss him. He and I have a lot in common and have become very close in the last 5 years or so. It's nice to have a brother!

Because of the premature celebrations, I'm going to be melting into Christmas / winter early on my page and blogs. I'm already so thrilled about spending the holiday season in Europe, I could just about *POP*! There will be lots to share when I return, but I might sneak in a couple festive recipes and such before I leave

Whatever you do for your festivities, I wish you conviviality, love, laughter and a happy, full tummy! I am grateful for all of you, my friends. My best to each of you.

DOUGHNUTS !

2008-11-01T17:32:00.000-07:00

We just finished making doughnuts...so, for the next several days, whenever we go out with our coats on, we'll smell like a doughnut shop. Could be worse! It's a Halloween tradition around here, preceded by my family's tradition, to make these. It's a weekend late, though, as last weekend was happily taken up by the Seattle Food and Wine Expo. Well, they taste just as delicious on All Souls Day as they do on Halloween, so here is the recipe.

Making doughnuts is time-consuming, but easy. And the time involved is the fun part of the whole process. These doughnuts have a strong flavor of nutmeg and have a fluffy texture due to having mashed potatoes in the dough. Make the mashed potatoes as you normally would, with milk, butter and salt. Just don't make them too wet. If you are one who doesn't like nutmeg, you could decrease the amount or leave it out and increase the vanilla to 1 teaspoon. But, the nutmeg is what makes them unique and makes me feel the cozy autumn nights.

The dough is very soft ~ more of a very thick batter. Don't be tempted to add flour. It is the softness of the dough that makes the doughnuts so tender. It needs to chill for at least three hours before rolling it out, so figure that into your timing. I usually make it the night before I want to fry the doughnuts. If you don't have a traditional cutter, you can cut them into triangles of about 1.5 inches per side. Any larger, and they won't get fully cooked inside.

For icing and such, I make chocolate glaze, vanilla glaze, colored sugars, cinnamon sugar and powdered sugar ~ sometimes "sprinkles" for holidays. Choose your favorites and decorate to your heart's delight! But most of all....have FUN!

FLUFFY POTATO DOUGHNUTS

3 lg. eggs

1 and 1/3 c. sugar

1/2 t. vanilla

1 c. mashed potatoes, cooled (not too wet - they should have body)

2 T. vegetable oil

4 c. flour

6 t. baking powder

2 t. freshly ground nutmeg

1 t. salt

1/2 c. milk

Beat eggs with sugar and vanilla until light. Add potatoes and oil and beat briefly to combine. Combine dry ingredients in a separate bowl. Add dry ingredients alternately with milk to egg mixture, beating well. Chill dough at least 3 hours.

Heat a pot of frying oil to 375 degrees F., or use a deep fat fryer heated to 375. Roll out a third of the dough at a time, keeping the remainder in the fridge. Roll onto a well-floured surface to 3/8 inch thickness. Cut with a floured doughnut cutter or cut into small triangles.

Transfer immediately hot frying oil. Fry approximately 3 minutes, turning over halfway. Drain on paper towels and frost and decorate as desired.

Makes 25-30 doughnuts plus 40 doughnut holes

SEATTLE FOOD & WINE EXPERIENCE 2008

2008-10-28T20:12:00.000-07:00

The Seattle Food and Wine Experience was huge fun! I attended the show as a food correspondent for Foodbuzz. If you haven't checked out Foodbuzz yet, you should! I tasted something like 30 wines and champagnes (there were a thousand available, but I had to pace myself!), discovered some new products, ate delectable small plates from several Seattle restaurants, picked up some recipes, but, mostly, enjoyed talking with people who are passionate about food, wine, cooking and eating.

Nearly all the mini entrees were excellent and I'm still going back and forth between two of them for my favorite taste of the show. I think Rover's chef Thierry Rautureau's Elk Bourguignon on Farro alongside Braised Rabbit with White Beans and Tomato just barely edged out my second choice. Barely. And that's only because I'm such a wild game freak. The elk was allowed to be itself in a sauce with hints of cinnamon and other 'warm' spices. Nothing overwhelmed - the flavors were perfectly balanced. And the "pop" of the farro grains was a nice counterpoint to the tender meat. The rabbit was shredded and tender, subtly flavored. Perhaps a little too subtly, but it is easy to bury the flavor of rabbit. I went back for seconds at the end of the day.

Next highest honors I give to Barking Frog chef Bobby Moore's Grand Marnier Prawns, which are the best prawn anything to ever pass my lips. The coating was sumptuous, creamy, with a perfectly light citrus flavor. The prawns were a major hit with everyone I talked to and chef Moore was kind enough to have the printed recipe there to share with his salivating crowd. Besides being a symphony in my mouth, they looked absolutely gorgeous. Food porn at its finest! These sensuous mouthfuls were enough to make me moan. And I did.

GRAND MARNIER PRAWNS

Exec. Chef Bobby Moore

20 peeled and deveined large prawns

1 1/2 c. cornstarch

1 c. Grand Marnier

4 c. orange juice

3 T. dried orange zest, pulsed in coffee grinder

2 c. mayonnaise

For the sauce, add the Grand Marnier to a sauce pan and burn off the alcohol, cool immediately. Reduce in a separate pan the orange juice to a syrup and cool immediately. Combine the Grand Marnier, orange syrup and pulsed orange zest powder with the mayonnaise and refrigerate.

To cook the prawns, heat frying oil to 350 degrees F. Dust the prawns in the cornstarch, shaking off any excess starch. Fry the prawns until crispy (about 2 minutes) and drain on paper towels. In a large bowl, toss the hot prawns in the Grand Marnier mayonnaise to coat. Serve on skewers. (My own note: I think these would be wonderful served as a starter on mixed torn greens)

There is much more to relay about the day and I'll be doing that over the next week. Reliving the tastes has made me HUNGRY, so I'm off to the kitchen to satisfy myself. Mmmmmmmmmmmm.

PASTITSIO / PASTITSO

2008-10-15T19:05:00.000-07:00

This is my version of the ultimate Greek comfort food. I woke up craving this today. Pastitsio is a baked pasta layered with a spiced meat sauce and topped with a cheesy bechamel sauce. Dieters, avert your eyes! The signature flavors are nutmeg and cinnamon. Greeks (and others) often use what Americans consider "sweet" spices in meat dishes. This is loaded with eggs and butter and is guaranteed to warm the cockles of your heart on a cold evening.

FOR THE MEAT SAUCE:

6 T. butter

1 c. finely chopped yellow onions

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 lbs. leanest ground beef

1 15 oz. can crushed tomatoes

1 8 oz. can tomato sauce

3/4 t. salt

1/4 t. freshly ground black pepper

1 t. ground cinnamon

1 t. dried oregano, crushed

FOR THE PASTA MIXTURE:

1 lb. box ziti pasta (or penne)

1/4 c. butter, melted

6 eggs, beaten

1 c. grated Parmesan cheese

FOR THE WHITE SAUCE:

4 T. butter

4 T. flour

1 3/4 c. milk, heated

2 eggs, beaten

1/2 t. freshly grated nutmeg (it really has to be fresh!)

1 c. grated Parmesan cheese

METHOD:

In a large skillet, heat 3 T. of the butter, add the onions and garlic and saute until just beginning to brown. Add remaining butter and crumble in the ground beef. Add all the remaining meat sauce ingredients and stir to combine. Simmer uncovered for 20 minutes, until most of the liquid has been absorbed. It should be thick. Remove from heat and set aside. Cook ziti until barely al dente. Drain and rinse with cold water. Drain well and place in a large bowl. Add melted butter, beaten eggs and cheese. Place pasta mixture into a buttered large lasagne pan or casserole pan. Pour meat sauce over pasta and gently mix. ** see note. Make the white sauce by melting the 4 T. butter in a saucepan. Add the flour and stir until it's bubbling nicely. Gradually add the hot milk, stirring constantly with a whisk. Cook until smooth and thickened. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl and add to them about a half cup of the hot sauce, whisking quickly to combine. Pour back into the rest of the sauce and stir until well combined. Stir in the nutmeg and cheese. Pour the sauce over the pasta and push the sauce into it in several places. Bake at 350 F. for 30 - 45 minutes, until the top is lightly browned.

**You may also layer half of the pasta, then pour on the meat sauce, topped with the rest of the pasta, even going so far as to line up the noodles nicely so it looks pretty when cut. I do that for dinner parties, but only then!

PRECIOUS PORCINIS !!!

2008-10-11T19:28:00.000-07:00

At the Olympia Farmers' Market yesterday, as I was admiring the gorgeous fall produce, I suddenly squealed. In a basket in front of me were 10 huge fresh porcini mushrooms. The proprietor came over, smiling, and I said, "Shut UP! You have fresh porcinis!" He told me that they'd been gathered at 3700 feet in the Cascade Mountains the afternoon before. I've never seen fresh porcinis for sale except in Europe. I bought 3 fat ones. I left behind an enormous one that the man held up and said, "I think a gnome is wandering around in the forest wondering what happened to his house!" The price was...EEK...$28 a pound. Do any of my European friends know what they are going for there, per kg.? I'm curious to compare. I also bought a few chanterelles. I haven't found any yet this year, but I'm going out tomorrow to hunt for some.

I brought my treasure home, sliced them up and sauteed them in gänseschmalz (goose fat), with sea salt and pepper. Oh, the scent as they cooked! I gave myself a mushroom facial, just hanging over the pan and inhaling, until my glasses fogged up - HA! I'd like to say that they ended up in a risotto al funghi, but they went straight from the pan into my mouth. Nirvana.....~OMMM~.

Boletus edulis, known also as King bolete, porcini, cepe, cep or Steinpilz, is a choice edible mushroom found from June to October. Found underneath conifers, birch and aspen at alpine elevations. The cap can reach 25 cm/10 in. in diameter and can weigh up to 1 kg./2 lbs. My God, I would have a gastronomic orgasm if I saw one that size. My friend in Munich collects them in the autumn and, in good years, dries enough to send me a big bag of them for Christmas. Have I mentioned I love her? Dried porcinis smell wonderful...like smoked earth. Some of the names for them can be really cute, in translation. For instance - eekhoorntjesbrood (Dutch) which means 'squirrels' bread', porcini (Italian) which means 'piglets', and 'penny bun' (English).

So, off I will go tomorrow, with my mushroom knife, cloth bag, my mushroom-hunting cat and hope. If I'm lucky, there will be another pan of 'shrooms to eat!

Porcini, my big, huggable cat

MEAN ROOSTER STEW

2008-10-04T11:43:00.000-07:00

It's raining sideways here and I expect one or two of my chickens to blow by the window at eye level any minute. In thinking that, it got me thinking of ... food. On a blustery day like this, what with the odd chicken possibly being knocked unconscious, a nice pot of mean rooster stew with dumplings seemed just the thing. Heh heh!

I've had a rooster or five over the years that ended up in a pot somehow. After about the 20th time one of them ambushes you from behind a shrub, spurs flying, it tends to make you less enamored of the gorgeous buggers. But WAIT! Lest you think this animal-loving woman has a dark side, (well, I do, but let's not visit it, shall we?) I hasten to say that any rooster I've "dispatched" has been anesthetized first. Yes, anesthetized. See, once they're dead, I have no problem bleeding, plucking, singeing, gutting and cooking them. It's that killing part I can't do. So, I have my unorthodox way. (No, the anesthetic doesn't stay in the meat) Any self-respecting true farmer is laughing his or her butt off right about now, and I'm not advocating this, it's just what I do.

And oh, the TASTE of a chicken that's been truly free range, eating bugs, berries and grass, zipping around racing the other chickens...it's nothing like the flaccid, white, bland chicken of the supermarket - poor things. So, here is my recipe. And, if you don't have a convenient rooster you're ticked off at for raping your hens and attacking you, you certainly can use store-bought chicken or turkey and have excellent results, too!

MEAN ROOSTER STEW & DUMPLINGS

a 4-5 lb. chicken, cut up

5 T. olive oil

12 pearl onions, peeled OR

1 lg. onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

3 carrots, cut into chunks

3 ribs celery with leaves, sliced

6-inch sprig fresh rosemary, leaves minced

3 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves stripped

2 tsp. salt

1/2 t. freshly ground pepper

DUMPLINGS

2 c. flour

3 t. baking powder

1 t. salt

2 T. minced Italian parsley

1/8 t. ground nutmeg

4 T. shortening

3/4 - 1 c. very cold milk

In a large, wide stock pot, heat 3 T. olive oil. Braise chicken pieces until golden brown on all sides. Transfer chicken to a plate, discard oil but save all browned bits in bottom of pot. Add remaining 2 T. olive oil and return pan to medium heat. Add onions, garlic, carrots and celery and saute 3-5 minutes until vegetables are softening, but not browning. Stir in herbs, salt and pepper and saute briefly. Add chicken pieces back to pot and add cold water just to cover chicken. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a simmer. Then make dumplings: Combine the dry ingredients and the parsley in a large bowl. Cut in the shortening until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Add 3/4 c. of the milk and stir briefly with a fork. Don't over mix! Add only enough of the remaining milk to make dough hold together. Once the chicken has simmered for 25 minutes, drop egg-sized spoonfuls of dough on top of the bubbling broth. Cover and steam for 20 minutes, without peeking! The cover must stay on to make the dumplings fluffy. Turn off heat, let stand a few minutes and serve in deep bowls.

Serves 6

PIGGIES !!! and Horses, Goats, etc. etc.

2008-09-18T15:50:00.000-07:00

Well, I got my fix at the state fair yesterday. Got kisses from cows, pigs, goats and bunnies and I'm pretty sure I fell in love with a draft horse. My friend and I spent 6 hours at the fair, the entire time in the animal barns. Great fun! If someone had offered me a pig, I'd probably have arrived home with him in the back seat.

This is the horse I fell in love with - his name was Flash. He is a dapple grey Percheron. Height is 17.5 hands. Big, BIG horse. The second photo is of Ritchie. At the draft horse exhibition, there were Clydesdales, Belgians, Percherons, Spotted Drafts and the little Shetlands. Just gorgeous and awesome to watch in action. I have some video I'll post of the cart-pulling demonstration.

Great day, learned some things, and came home as tired as this Himalayan rabbit!

FROM THE GARDEN

2008-09-10T09:46:00.000-07:00

I've had fun harvesting this morning, and here are the results. The smell of the dirt stuck in the leek roots is a scent I love. And the smell of the sunflower stalks when cut. Mmmmm. The cool summer has delayed some of the vegetables, and others just didn't do well. But I'm happy for what worked !

It's so perfect outside, I'm soaking in all the sun and warmth I can. I'm fully into autumn-cozy mode. I'm stacking firewood - the silver lining of the horrible windstorms that downed 7 of our trees in December. We heat our house by woodstove only, so firewood is a big deal. I'm also canning, making herbed and fruited vinegars and oils, baking and doing my arty pursuits in the evenings. With the help of Reggie, of course! See how well he helps?

I hope you all are enjoying the days...

AUTUMNAL SEASON WORDSEARCH

2008-09-09T21:44:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while, I like to create a wordsearch, using an online program. Usually, I make them for holidays or the changing seasons and then include them in cards I send. If you are feeling wordy and up for a game, you can check out my puzzle here:

http://www.armoredpenguin.com/wordsearch/Data/2008.09/0920/09204159.117.html

WILD RICE

2008-09-07T17:30:00.000-07:00

I've written before on rice, as it's my favorite food. Wild rice is a grass, like other rices, but of a different genus. True rice is of the genus Oryza and wild rice is Zizania. Wild rice and maize are the only cereals native to North America. It grows in the shallows of the Great Lakes region of Minnesota and Canada. "Manoomin" is the Ojibwe Indian word for wild rice, translated as "good seed". The Chippewa and Ojibwe tribes still harvest wild rice in the traditional way.

Native Americans harvest wild rice by canoeing into a stand of plants, and bending the ripe grain heads over the edge of the canoe, with wooden sticks called knockers, so as to thresh the seeds into the canoe. The size of the knockers, as well as other details, are prescribed in state and tribal law. (Don't get me started on the innuendos....I'm thinking I would be good at this! HA!) After knocking, the rice is parched, thrashed and winnowed. Parching is the drying of the moist rice kernels, thrashing is removing the hulls from the parched wild rice, and winnowing is separating the kernels from the hull. These steps are now mechanized, but were formerly done in the old ways, by hand and foot and birch bark containers.

True wild rice is not like the shiny, black grains usually sold commercially. The "real" stuff is brown and thinner than the cultivated variety and has a distinctly nuttier flavor. It also takes less time to cook than the cultivated type. Both, however, are delicious and healthy. Wild rice is high in protein, lysine and fiber and is gluten-free. It is high in B-vitamins and potassium.

A Minnesotan friend of ours once gave us a "share" of the Chippewa harvest of wild rice for Christmas. We had to wait until the following autumn to receive our 2 lb. share. It was worth the wait and it felt good to know the money went directly to the tribe. I've posted a recipe for wild rice salad since autumn is just about here!

SEASON'S SHIFT ~ MUSINGS

2008-09-01T18:21:00.000-07:00

The pigeon is cooing his low, throaty mantra as the sun fades from the day. His hypnotic tones lull the chickens toward sleep and calm my thoughts. The colder breath of autumn nibbles at my bare toes, my earlobes. Summer is releasing. I am ready for the golden-lighted days, crisp nights, flaming sunsets and the harvest that autumn brings. This time of beginning to draw inward; storing the memory of hot sun on skin and cooling waters -- for the times when the sun hides for days and rain washes the landscape.

Soon, I will search the woods for mushrooms. Precious gifts I carry home to my kitchen -- the smell of them almost as sublime as their taste. Their velvet caps and flutes, their feet cradled in earthy humus; I cut carefully, so they may return again. My cat, Thunder, follows me into the forest when I hunt for mushrooms. Like a truffle pig, he has often led me to groupings of mushrooms off my path. Does he know? It has happened too many times for me to question him.

The garden still has more to give ~ grapes, blackberries, tomatoes (with luck), potatoes to be dug, cabbage, leeks and lush herbs begging to be preserved in chutneys, vinegars and by drying. Summer's bounty isn't over yet. But I am ready and open to the quiet season, when my body is nestled in warmth and my mind flies.

I saw old Autumn in the misty morn stand shadowless like silence, listening to silence. Thomas Hood

WHO I AM NOT ~ a poem

2008-08-30T21:41:00.000-07:00

WHO I AM NOT

I am not twenty~
No longer lean, smooth, unmarked.
Now my body is strong,
still lithe,
under a cloak of yielding softness.
My skin is not pearly
in winter.
Nor flawlessly unlined and brown
in summer,
from idle days spent perfecting
just the right look.
My scars, my cicatrices,
both inner and outer
have been earned;
often suffered for.
Reminders of where I have been.
I am not a girl
who falls asleep to dreams of possibilities.
I am a woman
who lives them.
Building on adventures lived,
planning explorations yet to come.
My body, although there is more of it now,
holds my soul.
Be kind.
As I am learning to be.

-GNB 08/2008 c.

SIMPLE SEAWEED SOUP

2008-08-30T20:07:00.000-07:00

Whenever I get the chance, I like to gather seaweeds from the rocks on our coast. I especially love sea lettuce, when I can find it. It's not only delicious, it's beautiful! The smell of seaweed makes me happy - the briny, green freshness that translates so well into many dishes. But, soup is my favorite way to eat it and I have it often.

This can be made with fresh or rehydrated dry laver or wakame. I use wakame, as I like its more substantial bite. This is just the basic recipe, to which you can add virtually anything you like -- shredded daikon radish or carrot, tofu, ginger juice, yam noodles or bean threads, sliced bok choy leaves, sliced shiitake mushrooms, etc. Healthy, light and delicious!

Ingredients:

5 c. water

2 pkgs dashi no moto (or make your own dashi)2 T. shoyu or good quality soy sauce

1 c. fresh, chopped seaweed, or rehydrated seaweed to make 1 cup

3 scallions, sliced, white and green parts separated

1 T. white or yellow miso paste, dissolved in 2 T. cold water

2 eggs, beaten

Directions:

In medium stock pot, combine water, dashi no moto and shoyu and bring to a boil. Add seaweed and white portion of green onions and simmer for five minutes. Turn off heat, but leave pot on burner. Gently stir in the beaten eggs and add the miso paste. Cover pot and remove from burner. Serve with green portion of the sliced onions. Add additional shoyu, to taste.

Serves 4-6

GRILLED LAKE TROUT

2008-08-13T15:10:00.000-07:00

No, I didn't catch these, but after the gorgeous day at the lake yesterday, trout seemed the perfect thing. The smoked paprika adds a nice depth of flavor and the smell as it comes off the grill will make your mouth water. I served these with freshly dug small potatoes and onions from the garden -- I cut them into chunks and drizzled them with olive oil, red chile flakes and some herbed salt. Baked them covered with foil at 400 degrees F for 20 minutes, then uncovered it and baked another 5 minutes, then broiled them till crispy. Yummy!

Ingredients:

2 fresh, cleaned trout - head and tail on

White wine vinegar

2 sprigs fresh tarragon, 6-8 inches long

2 tsp. smoked sweet paprika powder

1 garlic clove, sliced very thinly

Directions:

Pat the insides of the trout dry. Hold fish on its back as you work. Sprinkle a tablespoon or two of the white wine vinegar into the cavity. Insert the tarragon, with a few leaves sticking out the front. Lay half of the sliced garlic along the tarragon. Sprinkle one teaspoon of the paprika over all. Lay fish down and repeat with other trout. Have coals on the grill ready at medium heat. Put trout on grill and watch carefully. Smaller size trout will be done in about 12 minutes, turning over halfway through cooking. Large size trout will be done in approx. 15 minutes. Toward the end, I like to move the trout to the hottest part of the grill and crisp the skin. I love that crunch!

CIME DI RAPA & CANNELLINI BEAN SALAD

2008-08-04T21:39:00.000-07:00

Wow! A recipe from me that includes neither meat nor rice! This is a summer salad, served warm or at room temperature. Cime di rapa, also known as broccoli raab, rapini and other monikers, is a member of the brassica family of plants. The florets that may bloom yellow are also edible, so don't throw them away. The flavor is of slightly bitter, young broccoli. It is very popular in southern Italian cuisine. As usual with Italian recipes, the ingredients are few, so best quality of each component is a must! You can choose to soak and boil dried cannellini beans, if you wish, but, since it's summertime - what say we don't get the house any hotter than we have to? All you need to go along with this is some iced tea or...my choice...well-chilled Pinot Grigio, Verdicchio or even Gewürtztraminer.

GAYLE'S CIME DI RAPA & CANNELLINI BEAN SALAD

2 15 oz. cans Cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
2/3 c. chicken or vegetable broth
1.5 lbs. cime di rapa (broccoli raab)
1/3 c. extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
A dozen fresh sage leaves
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Trim bottom inch or so off of the broccoli raab, then cut into 3 inch lengths. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to boil and cook until nearly tender. Drain well and transfer to salad bowl. While it is cooking, heat half of the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat and add stemmed sage leaves to the oil. Stir gently but constantly, until leaves are crispy, but don't let them turn brown. Remove leaves to a plate. Add garlic to oil and turn off heat. Don't allow garlic to brown. Heat beans, sage leaves, garlic with oil and broth in a saucepan and simmer for five minutes. Pour beans over broccoli raab and gently toss with salt and pepper, to taste. Allow to cool down to warm temperature. Just before serving, pour remaining olive oil over salad and toss once more.
Serves 4 as main course, 6 as salad course.

TWO POEMS

2008-07-24T14:19:00.000-07:00

Wearing only skin,

I feel the wind play around the curves

Of my body.

Cirrus clouds sweep in feathers and frost

On a summer blue sky.

I am being regarded.

Pigeon on the fence,

A cat, secret among the raspberries,

Grosbeaks on a branch.

Perfect companions

On this July day.

___________________________________

Black fur on creamy skin,

The cat moulds himself to my shape

Like warm water.

I think of your breath

As the breeze touches me.

Goosebumps,

In spite of the heat.

GNB

OFFALLY TASTY

2008-07-23T21:39:00.000-07:00

Organ meats, offal, or the euphemistic "variety meats" are too often overlooked (at best) or run away from, with disgusted noises issuing forth from the escapee. If only more people would try them! Most of it is a mental block, of course. At what point did we decide that muscle was the only kind of meat we should eat?

I was raised with my German great-grandmother, who grew up on a farm. Every part of a slaughtered animal was used. To throw away a good part of that animal would have been unthinkable. That sort of waste was not only a luxury, but, given the delightful flavors of the various organs, would have been a real loss to gastronomic satisfaction. When I travel to Europe, I'm always thrilled to find organ meats on the menus and available for purchase in the stores. Heaven!

I'll ease the uninitiated in and begin with tripe. The simple definition of tripe is: the lining of a cow's stomach(s). However, tripe from pigs, goats or sheep can also be called tripe. But, the beef version is the most prevalent. There are 4 kinds of tripe, just as there are 4 stomachs in a cow or other ruminant. However, only 3 are usually available commercially, and only 2 are popular. The most readily available type is "honeycomb", from the second stomach, the reticulum. It is so named because the inner side has a pattern similiar to a honeycomb. Most recipes you will find call for this type. "Blanket" or smooth tripe comes from the first stomach, the rumen. This is the type favored for menudo. The third type available is one I like very much. From the omasum, it's called "bible" "book" or "leaf" tripe due to the hanging sheets of lining coming from the stomach. The fourth type is from the Abomasum and is called "reed" tripe. But it is usually not sold or sought after, due to its glandular tissue.

Trivia: the word 'ruminate' comes from ruminant...to slowly digest something.

Tripe dishes are popular in many countries...Patsas in Greece, Drisheen in Ireland, Dobrada in Portugal, Trippa in Italy, Andouille in France, Pepperpot Soup in America and Pho soup in Vietnam, for example. Popular belief has it that tripe is a cure for hangover and for improving your sex life! So why not eat some tripe today??? Try my recipe for Trippa alla Milanese and see what you think!

RICE, RISO, RIZ - MY FAVORITE

2008-07-19T18:14:00.000-07:00

Anyone who knows me will tell you that rice is my comfort food. When other women crave chocolate, I crave rice. Any form of rice will suffice! My favorite basic rice is jasmine and my favorite dish is any kind of risotto, preferably made with Vialone Nano rice. I love 'wild pecan rice' from Louisiana. It has a nutty flavor and has some of the bran left on the grain. It smells like popcorn when cooking.

Rice is a grain belonging to the grass family. Botanical name: Oryza sativa and Oryza glaberrima. The plant requires warmth and moisture to grow, measures between 2 and 6 feet tall, depending on variety. Plants have long, flat, pointy leaves and stalk-bearing flowers which produce the grain known as rice. Rice is one of the few foods in the world which is entirely non-allergenic and gluten-free.

Rice is consumed by nearly half the entire world population and many countries are completely dependent on rice as a staple food. Rice is the most widely consumed grain in the world. It feeds a third of the world’s population: 590 million tons of rice were produced in 2003. The Chinese word for rice is the same as the word for food, and in Japanese, the word for cooked rice is the same word for meal. In Thailand, when you call your family to a meal you say, “eat rice.” Americans statistically eat only 25 lbs. of rice a year - not THIS girl...I eat 15 lbs. a month! In the Phillipines, a person eats 500 lbs. of rice per year!

At some point in its early cultivation in Asia, the more labor-intensive white rice became a status symbol—the whiter the better—and thus, the preferred variety. Only the poorest people, who could not afford white rice, ate brown rice. They, however, got far better nutrition. Today, it is unfortunate, given how many people in marginal economies eat rice, that white rice is the norm. Stripped of the bran and the germ, its most nutritious parts, white rice is almost pure starch. Brown rice has essential vitamins and minerals and takes less effort to mill. It would thwart the vitamin deficiency diseases that affect many of the world’s poorest rice-eating peoples, most notably beriberi. Enriching white rice does not compensate for the vitamins, minerals and fiber stripped away from the brown rice.

There are currently some innovative programs to grow rice more effectively. The system is called SRI, which stands for System of Rice Intensification, and the method at least doubles, the rice harvest. For an in-depth article about SRI, see the NY Times article here:

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/17/science/17rice.html?hp=&pagewanted=all

Most of us will only ever try a fraction of the number of rice cultivars known. The largest collection of rice cultivars is at the International Rice Research Institute, with over 100,000 rice accessions held in the International Rice Genebank.

As to Indian rice, most people are familiar with Basmati. But this is only one of many varieties grown in India. Rice agriculture is the backbone of India’s economy, providing direct employment to about 70% of working people in the country. Rice finds applications in the arts and crafts of India. Rice paste is used in the resist-dyeing techniques of creating patterns on cloth. In traditional homes, decorative features frequently consist of wall paintings and floor patterns. It is usually women who paint renditions of folklore and mythology on domestic spaces, passed on from mother to daughter. In many parts of India, as part of daily ritual -- ephemeral, abstract designs created by women are traced in rice powder or paste on domestic thresholds and floors. These are known by various names, alpana in Bengal, mandana in Rajasthan and kolam in South India, for instance. The designs are meant to bring good luck to the home.

Over the centuries, three main types of rice had developed in Asia, depending on the amylose content of the grain. They are called indica (high in amylose and cooking to fluffy grains to be eaten with the fingers, generally long grain types), japonica (low in amylase and cooking to sticky masses suitable for eating as clumps with chopsticks, generally short to medium grain types), and javanica (intermediate amylose content and stickiness).

So, I've posted my favorite Indian rice recipe in the recipe section. The flavors are haunting and unusual. Hope you'll try it and like it as much as I do.

RED CURRANT COFFEE CAKE

2008-07-17T14:47:00.001-07:00

This coffeecake is delicious without the berries, too, but since I had beautiful ripe currants in the garden this morning, I decided to make this with fruit. You can use fresh blueberries or raspberries instead if you don't like the tartness of currants.

Ingredients:

1/4 c. sugar

1/4 c. shortening

1/2 c. milk

1 egg

1 c. flour

1 1/2 t. baking powder

1/8 t. salt

1/2 c. fresh red currants

TOPPING:

1/4 c. sugar

Grated rind of one lemon

1/8 t. ground nutmeg

2 T. melted butter

Directions:

Preheat oven to 425 F. In small bowl, combine topping ingredients and set aside. Cream sugar and shortening. In separate bowl, combine dry ingredients. Whisk egg into the milk in a small bowl. Then add half of the dry ingredients and half of the milk mixture to the creamed sugar and whisk until smooth. Repeat with remaining flour and milk mixtures. Gently fold in berries (if using). Spread in a lightly greased 9 x 9" pan. Drizzle topping ingredients onto batter. It will form buttery, sweet tunnels in the cake. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. Cool, cut and serve. Lovely with tea!

SEA BEANS

2008-07-08T20:49:00.000-07:00

Salty, substantial and satisfying -- these vegetables are a wonderful addition to many dishes. The botanical name is Salicornia, with several subspecies, but sea beans are known by many names: samphire, glasswort, pickleweed, pousse-pied, salicornia tips and sea asparagus. If anyone knows the various Asian names for them, I'd love to know! The term samphire is believed to be a corruption of the French name, herbe de Saint-Pierre, which means "St. Peter's Herb." I like the sound of samphire the best of all the names, myself. Salicornia is a genus of succulent, salt-tolerant plants which grow in salt marshes, on beaches and in mangrove swamps. It is native to Europe, the United States, south Asia and Sri Lanka. The ashes of these plants and of kelp were long used as a source of soda ash for glass and soapmaking until the 19th century.

I first came across sea beans at Uwajimaya ~ a fantastic Asian food supermarket in Seattle. "Waji's" is one of my main food stops on each city trip! But, I digress. More on Uwajimaya in a future blog. As you can see from the photo, the plants are rather coral-esque...growing in branched form. They can be eaten raw in a salad, where their crunchy, sharp-salty taste really pops. Sometimes I just snack on them by themselves. But, their flavor develops more nuance when quickly cooked as part of a stir-fry, or sauteed with a garlicky, black bean sauce or added to yakisoba noodles. Their briny pang offsets the sweet yakisoba sauce beautifully! And they are tender when cooked ~ not at all stringy. They complement fish dishes very well. Remember to reduce salt in any recipe in which you use them and then adjust as necessary when done.

I need to learn whether they grow here in the northwest and seek them out on the coast. I hope you'll be able to procure some, either in a shop or in the wild and try them. They are available fresh all summer long. At other times of the year, you can find them pickled, but fresh is best, as always. Bet you'll be as addicted as I am!

I'll post a recipe I found on Epicurious, for Black Roasted Cod with Sea Beans and Oysters. It sounds divine and I'm going to make it soon!

More to come about sea vegetables and yummy recipes to try ...

AN EXOTIC PATIENT AT WORK

2008-06-23T17:15:00.000-07:00

Today we treated a kitten at the veterinary hospital ~ a Canada Lynx kitten! You can see his long tufts of hair on the ear tips. One of our clients is certified in big cat rescue and this kitten was brought to her from a local Indian tribe. His mother was discovered dead and this one was in the den, thin and weak. As you can see, he is strong and gorgeous now. It isn't every day I get to kiss a lynx! Even at this young age of 6 weeks, the wildness is in his eyes. He also doesn't purr or meow like a domestic cat ~ he makes gurgly, growling and screeching noises.

His future will be to become an ambassador for his species ~ visiting schools to educate children about the big cats and wildlife, in general. I will update further, as we see him as he grows.

Canada Lynx Facts:

Meat is on the menu for lynx, and the meat of choice is snowshoe hare. It took extensive field studies to determine how and why these two species interact to such a great extent. Fluctuations in populations of both are closely linked. Many other carnivores compete for the same prey as the lynx's but only the lynx is as skilled at catching elusive and quick hares. Hare makes up the bulk of the diet, but a lynx will sustain itself on squirrels, grouse, rodents or even domestic animals.
Lynx feet seem overly large for their body size. The well-furred feet impart nearly silent movement and act as snowshoes in winter. The footprint of this cat is larger than a human hand. With its long legs, the lynx can travel rapidly while trailing evasive prey in the tight confines of a forest. Like other cats, it is not built for fast, long-distance running ~ it generally stalks and ambushes its prey.
This cat is primarily an inhabitant of the boreal forest, across Canada and Alaska. Also found in the northern Cascade mountains of Washington and Oregon. The most likely place to see one is in the Selkirk Mountains.
It is rare to see a lynx in the wild, even if you happen to be in prime lynx territory. It's far more likely the lynx is watching you...silently...assessing.