April 8, 2010

SPICY HARLOTS' BAKED PENNE



Since my return from 'across the pond' to visit my Italian friend, I've had pasta on the brain and in my veins (probably literally). I felt like eating something spicy today and had some sugo alla puttanesca (whore's sauce) in the pantry. There are several stories as to how the sauce got its name and various restaurateurs who claim to be the first to make it. No one really knows, but everyone knows it's delicious! In any case, it seems to have first appeared in the 1950's. My favorite story concerns the state-owned Italian brothels in the 50's. The brothels were called case chiuse, or "closed houses" because the shutters always had to be closed, to avoid offending the neighbors and passers-by. The 'civil servants' of the brothels were only allowed only one day a week to do their shopping. I suppose because their clothing, or lack thereof, would also offend? When ingredients ran short, this sauce was made from what could be found in the kitchen. Lucky for me, I didn't need to make my own today, or I'd have had to change my outfit to something more ... harlot-y.


1 lb. penne rigate pasta
1 25 oz. jar puttanesca sauce (I used Trader Joe's brand)
1 lb. hot Italian sausage
Extra virgin olive oil, about 1/3 c. total
8 large crimini mushrooms, quartered
1/2 of a large onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 c. dry white wine
1/2 t. black pepper, freshly ground
1/4 t. red chile flakes
3 c. grated parmiggiano reggiano (the real stuff!)
6 slices provolone cheese


Directions:
Heat oven to 400 F. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add 1 T. salt, then pour in penne. Cook until still quite al dente, then drain and pour back into the pot. Add the puttanesca sauce and stir to combine. In a large skillet, heat 3 T. or so of olive oil over medium high heat. Add mushrooms, sauteeing until browned. Pour in 1/2 cup of the wine and cook one minute longer. Add mushrooms to pot. In same skillet, in 2 T. olive oil, saute the onions and garlic with the pepper and red chile flakes until onions are just beginning to brown. Add them to the pot. Again in same skillet, brown the sausage, breaking up into pieces, but not too much. Add rest of wine and simmer until reduced by half. Add sausage to the pot. Gently combine all the ingredients in the pot. Pour half of the pasta mixture into a 9 x 13 baking pan. Sprinkle pasta with half of the parmiggiano. Cover with the rest of the pasta, then the rest of the parmiggiano, then lay the cheese slices on top. Bake for 20 minutes in the preheated oven until cheese is browning. Let stand a few minutes before serving.
Serves 8

WHITE LASAGNA with ASPARAGUS & CHICKEN


LASAGNE BIANCHE con ASPARAGI e POLLO

It's finally SPRING! Which means we can all find lively, green, FRESH things at the market again. I mean, I love squash and cabbage, roasts and stews as much as the next person, but it's time again for bright flavors that give a taste-tease for summer bounty to come. Right now, there are young mesclun salad mixes, tiny artichokes, fresh peas and white or green asparagus vying for attention over the tulips and daffodils of springtime.

Here is a recipe I came up with after I bought some of the first local asparagus of the season. I used green, but I'm awaiting the delicious purple-stemmed asparagus we get here in Washington a bit later in the year. White asparagus would also work fine, but the flavor will be more subtle. Contrary to what most people think, thicker stalks of asparagus have more flavor and are just as tender as thin asparagus if trimmed correctly. The best way is to bend the stalk near the base and the stalk will naturally break at the division between woody bottom and tender top. So, don't be afraid to buy those thicker stalks! Assert your asparagus love and get the big ones :-) Either chicken breast or thighs can be used in this recipe. I am a dark meat girl (hey, I'm talking about chicken!) so I prefer thighs. But, for company I would use the breast, as the result is prettier, and I'd also use regular lasagna noodles and precook them the old-fashioned way, but that's just me. I know many people prefer white chicken meat, so make your own call.


Ingredients:
1 cube (1/2 c.) butter, divided
6 large scallions, cut on diagonal into 1/2 inch pieces (both green and white parts)
1 lb. green asparagus, trimmed and cut on diagonal into 1 inch pieces
2 t. fresh thyme leaves, rubbed or chopped
2 T. fresh basil leaves, chopped
3 1/2 c. chicken broth
1 1/2 c. heavy cream
1 bay leaf
4 T. flour
2 large, boneless chicken breasts, boiled and cut into 1/4 inch strips OR use 5 boneless chicken thighs
1 9 oz. pkg. no-cook lasagna noodles
2 c. fresh, finely grated Parmiggiano Reggiano cheese (or Grana Padano)


Directions:
Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add scallions and cook until wilted, stirring often. Transfer to a bowl. Melt 2 more tablespoons butter in same pan and add asparagus and thyme. Add salt and pepper, to taste. Saute about 4 minutes, until asparagus is crisp-tender, stirring often. Add to bowl with the scallions, then add chopped basil leaves to the vegetable mixture and toss gently to combine. Into a large saucepan on medium heat, put remaining 4 tablespoons of butter and melt. Add 4 tablespoons flour and stir with whisk until bubbly. Gradually add the chicken broth, stirring constantly, then add cream. Bring to a low boil and cook for about three minutes. Sauce will be thickened, but not too thick. The lasagna noodles need the moisture to cook. Remove from heat and set aside. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly butter a 9 x 13" pan. Pour 1/4 of the white sauce into bottom of pan. Lay lasagna noodle sheets on the sauce, breaking gently to fit closely, if necessary. Scatter 1/3 of the vegetable mixture over the lasagna, then top with 1/3 of the cooked chicken, making sure each future piece will have some chicken. Sprinkle 1/2 cup of the cheese on the layer, then repeat with noodles, veggies, chicken, cheese two more times. Finish with lasagne noodles on top. Pour remaining white sauce over the noodles, then top with remaining 1/2 cup of cheese. Cover pan tightly with foil. Bake 45 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until top is bubbling and beginning to brown, about five minutes. Let stand a few minutes before cutting into serving pieces.

January 7, 2010

CHARCUTERIE ~ Meat Transformed

Charcuterie ~ the craft of salting, smoking and curing meat to transform it into something better than its beginnings. The tastes and shapes make it seem like magic, but anyone can make that magic happen. My foodie friend, Tiffany, and I got together this week to see what we could create. Since she's from Louisiana, the theme this time was New Orleans style recipes. We settled on making Tasso, a cured and spiced ham used in many dishes, from jambalaya to sauces to etouffe, and a mild Andouille sausage.

Tasso, dredged in salt and spices



Freshly made Andouille sausages

We bought all the meat, the wood chips for smoking, the hog casings and salt, then hurried back to start the mixtures.The scent of spices was heavy and heady in the kitchen! Cayenne, mace, allspice, thyme, white pepper, garlic, paprika, onion. Swoony smells! We started with the Tasso ~ making two different recipes so we could compare results. One called for "pink salt" - a curing salt that is Valentine pink, for a 4 hour cure. The other relies solely on salt and spices and a 3-5 day cure in the refrigerator. That one is still curing. The kitchen chemistry always fascinates me ~ what happens to the meat after a few hours. The texture and color change; flavor development and intensity. Barely pink pork turns rosy after curing, then reddish after smoking.

Starting the smoking process - soaked alder & hickory chips below

One thing we learned: it's virtually impossible to make sausage without LOTS of sexual innuendos flying ... Don't squeeze it so tight ... Wait! We're gonna have a blowout! ... It's not fitting in the hole ... Oh, that's a nice fat one ... how long do you want them? ... try to push against it as it's coming out ... twist it one way and then the other ... Hmmmmmmmmm. At times, we were laughing so hard, we could hardly hold onto the sausage! HAHAHAHA! When sausage and wine collide, only one thing can happen.

We had to taste-test our sausage before stuffing, didn't we???

Our hard work and laughter paid off in nearly perfect results. Okay, it WAS perfect. I'm just trying to be modest. As we tasted our meats, we could hardly believe that WE made this! The fat content was just right, the meats were juicy, spices were well-balanced and the shapes ... well, we know how to work a sausage. It's all in the handling, baby.


As a note on equipment, we used the Pro KitchenAid mixer with grinder and sausage-stuffing attachments. It leaves something to be desired and didn't work as well as it should have and has design flaws, so next time we will likely try another type of meat grinder and stuffer.

We're already plotting our next meat fest and choosing recipes. One I want to make is sturgeon sausage. Tiffany wants to make a chicken and green onion sausage. We still have 75 feet of hog casings, so lots of experimenting to come!

December 28, 2009

RÖTE GRÜTZE - German Berry Dessert


Röte grütze translates as "red grits". Which does nothing, really, to describe the dessert. It's a kind of loose, fruit pudding which can be made with berries, cherries, plums or a combination. This is a dessert often served in summer, when berries are ripe. But it's also served in winter time, using bottled or frozen berries. In either season, this is a bright ending to a dinner due to its slight tartness and fruit base. It is traditionally served cold, with heavy cream poured on top. Or, you can use whipped cream or nothing at all. A similar Scandinavian dessert is called rodgrod. Some recipes strain the mixture so it's smooth. I prefer fruit pieces and I don't mind the seeds. If you want to strain, go for it.
This year, my hubby requested it for dessert on Christmas and I may make it again for New Year's Day dinner.
My recipe here uses frozen fruit, for winter desserts.

Ingredients:
16 oz. pkg. frozen raspberries in syrup, thawed
16 oz. pkg. frozen strawberries in syrup, thawed
2 Tbsp. cornstarch
1 t. vanilla
1/4 c. rum
8 oz. loose frozen raspberries, thawed
1 c. cream


Directions:
In large saucepan, combine both types of thawed berries in syrup with cornstarch and whisk together until completely smooth. Place over medium heat and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Raspberries will break up as you go. The mixture will turn from milky to clear and start to thicken (5 - 7 minutes). When mixture is completely clear, remove from heat. Stir in vanilla and rum. Then gently fold the whole raspberries in. Pour into 4 dessert bowls and refrigerate several hours until set. The consistency should be of a loose pudding. Serve with a pitcher of cream for each person to pour on top, as they like.

MEDITERRANEAN MEATBALLS w/ dipping sauce


I played with this recipe for years before hitting on what I wanted it to be. Then, just as I thought it was perfect, I stumbled upon a variation I like just as well. Tonight I had to make a dish for a potluck, so these meatballs were my choice. But, I forgot to get some feta! Instead, I used pecorino ... and I love it! So, I guess it's an either / or choice that you can make. Instead of frying the meatballs, I bake them. Much easier and they turn out more tender. But if you prefer to fry, go for it. Enjoy them!

Ingredients:
1 lb. ground lamb
1.5 lbs. ground beef (85/15 is good)
3 slices substantial white or wheat bread, crusts removed
Approx. 1/2 c. milk
1/4 lb. feta OR pecorino cheese, crumbled or shredded
1 c. kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
1 egg, beaten
1/2 T. cinnamon
1/2 t. red pepper flakes
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bunch cilantro, chopped
Olive oil for pan

Dipping Sauce:

8 oz. plain yogurt, preferably Greek strained style
1/4 c. finely chopped Italian parsley
3 cloves roasted garlic

Directions:
Soak the crustless bread slices in milk; gently squeeze them out and crumble them into a large bowl. Add all of the remaining ingredients to the bowl and mix with your hands, gently but thoroughly. Don't over mix or the meatballs will be pasty. Heat the oven to 350 F. Oil a large cookie sheet or jelly roll pan. Oil your hands and form the mixture into meatballs of a size a bit bigger than a golf ball. You should end up with about 36-40 meatballs. Place them on the cookie sheet in rows about a half inch apart.

Bake for 45 minutes until medium brown, but still tender. Remove from oven, let cool 5 minutes, then transfer to a serving bowl. Meatballs can be served hot or at room temperature, with dipping sauce alongside.

For Dipping Sauce:

Mash roasted garlic cloves with the chopped parsley. Add yogurt and stir well to combine. Keep cold until ready to serve with meatballs.

BOOK TO PASS THE WINTER TIME

When I was in Utah, I made my pilgrimage to the King's English bookstore, which is truly one of my favorite places on the planet. I've written in detail about it in a previous blog. As usual, books seem to just present themselves to me when I'm there. This time was no exception. I came away with several, one of which I went specifically to buy there ~ Finding Beauty in a Broken World by Terry Tempest Williams. I thought maybe they'd have a signed copy and they did. Terry is a Utah native and strongly connected to the desert landscape. She is an amazing woman and a writer of great depth. Her books explore the natural world and our connection to it and within it. She approaches these spaces and inner spirit with prose that captures both the simple and the sacred. I have had the pleasure of meeting with her a few times, and heard her read and speak. Her passion is conveyed in the unique way she has of reading her own words and in the conviction in her voice as she speaks of the need to preserve wildness, bring it into our lives and learn more about ourselves by being in it.



So, I look forward to savoring this book, reading slowly and thoughtfully. It'll keep me cozy this winter.

November 6, 2009

SELF ~ INDULGENCE ... butter, kisses, stargazing and silk

I admit it ... I'm good at this. Perhaps too good. But, I notice a definite wariness in this country of indulging oneself, even more so in the current economic climate. Now, don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting you go spend buckets of money you don't have on fleeting pleasures (although fleeting pleasures are some of the finest!). My belief is that, when we treat ourselves as special beings, we bring out the best we have to give and go forth smiling from within. Denying oneself pleasure just for the sake of it does no one any good.

We all have our pleasures ~ WHY must they be "guilty"? Maybe the Puritans and Pilgrims did too complete a job of convincing Americans that we must suffer for our rewards. In that case, there must have been one hell of a confession/penance/guilt fest over that first Thanksgiving feast! HA! Stuffing, fowl and self-flagellation. What fun!


Several years ago, I brought a package of fine pastry to work with me. When it was time for my break, I brought it out, put it on a plate, made myself some Darjeeling tea in a pretty cup and took it outside to enjoy. I read my new book and, for fifteen minutes, was a world away in a happy cloud. When I came back inside, my friend said, "You know, Gayle, I admire you for being good to yourself. I always save the nice cookies and good things for company. You've inspired me to have some for myself." I said, "Yes! For NO reason! Do it!" It's such a little thing, but it can make you feel so good. The French understand this very well.


Friends of mine who are single often tell me that there isn't any point in cooking just for themselves. But there IS a point. It is another way of loving yourself, honoring your worth, caring for yourself the way that, so often, we are willing to do for others while neglecting our own well-being. And that... will eventually catch up with you, showing you through illness or dis-ease of heart that you're ignoring your core. Give yourself those moments of joy ~ whether it's meditation, smoking a fine cigar, reading till the wee hours (on a work night), eating that flaky pastry with a smile, staying in your jammies all day (maybe even with a special someone) ... whatever makes your heart warm and fuzzy and restores you.

The other day, I listened to Nigella Lawson expound on indulgences and I couldn't agree more! Listen to her radio interview here, and find the recipes, too.


So, what will YOU do for yourself today ?

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